DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Windows and Doors > Sliding door troubles




Help Support House Repair Talk by donating using the link above.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-16-2017, 11:50 AM  
mabloodhound
Restoration & Renovations
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Halifax, MA
Posts: 84
Liked 19 Times on 14 Posts
Likes Given: 18

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gottodo1 View Post

A couple questions:

1/ For the 2x6 sill plate, should that be pressure treated or just regular, looks like just regular there now.

2/ What should I do for the king & Jack stud support?

3/ Should I spray anything in there to kill the mold/fungus that dry-rotted the wood or will fixing the water intrusion solve that as well?

4/ The vapor barrier is shot. What should I do about that as I don't understand why there were 4 vapor barriers there and why the wrapped up around above and behind things. Basically my understanding is vapor barrier should have went up concrete wall downstairs then come over the 2x6 on the foundation then went to the outside of the rim joist then up to the subfloor. At that point that black water barrier membrane should have been under the door and sealed all of that off. The basement is finished so if I can avoid opening that wall and tap off the vapor barrier where that comes up to the cement top that would be great...

5/ For the bolt into the foundation, should I just cut that off flush with the foundation and move on to replace the 2x6 or should I put a notch in the 2x6 so I can still have the bolt in place?
This is the way I would do it; others may have a different opinion.

1/ The plate can be regular SF. You are high enough off the ground.

2/ After you get the new band/ledge installed I would try and cut that bad end off the plate (back to the next stud) that is under the king/jack and wedge a new piece in there. The old one will have nails into it from the K/J so it will take some work. After you get the wedge in place, try driving a screw at an angle through the studs into the wedge to hole it in place. You can also toenail a screw through the J when you remove the old door.

3/ If you remove the old rot and properly flash it, that should solve the problem.

4/ Yeah, I'm not sure what they did, put you want the vapor barrier open along the bottom edge in case and water were to get behind it, it could drain out the bottom. I use Ice & Water shield (sticky back stuff) around and under my doors & windows. I would use that below your door here also. Let it hang down over the concrete foundation a little to seal that space between the foundation and plate. The way it had been done before by wrapping, it was trapping any moisture up against the wood, causing rot. And yes, don't forget the sill flashing under the door. I use sheet lead and form my own "pan" along the full length of the door with a small lip on the interior edge and then a bent over lap on the exterior and also up both J studs on each side...all from one piece. You can also use the sticky Ice & Water shield. You can buy the I&W in widths that will work for this application.

5/ I notch my 2x6 for the bolt when I do it. Just easier than trying to cut it off.

And also as I said earlier, you need to add 1/2" plywood sheathing to the K/J studs around the door AND also below the door....before you do the flashing work. If you're going to put the deck back, it needs to be attached directly to the ledger/sheathing without any siding sandwiched in between. And the the deck rim joist can be flashed tight to the house so there is not water intrusion at that joint.


Dave Mason



Last edited by mabloodhound; 09-16-2017 at 11:58 AM.
mabloodhound is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2017, 03:27 PM  
gottodo1
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 161
Liked 25 Times on 23 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

mablood,
I've never really understood vapor barriers very well even after ready alot of websites as I just don't see how it benefits things very much when you realize it's really air flow that's the issue (100X more from my reading).

So since the vapor barrier to the basement is cut behind the sill plate and good rim joist, Ideally I would patch a new piece in and put it ontop of the sill plate and under the rim joist, then run it up the rim joist to the hole for the door. Then the flashing would come down over the door opening and the ledger board and protrude out and over the siding. Something like this except it doesn't show the vapor barier becuase it was directly using the RIM Joist and not a 2ndary mounting board. Right? https://www.familyhandyman.com/decks...thod/view-all/ Where would I leave it "open" At? I've used the 4" version on doors but I figure the 12" version will be more practical for the deck install. https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...807142&ipos=41


__________________
10/11: Bought the perfect house, 11/12: 10k & 200 hours,08/13: 30k & 400 hours into the perfect house, 12/13: 35k & 500 hours,02/14: 37k & 550 hours, 08/14: 38k & 650 hours
05/15: 40k & 700 hours and I think it's done, Home appraised +40k!!! 1 to 1 ratio achieved!
03/16: Filed small claims court on contractor for siding + all of previous
gottodo1 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2017, 07:10 AM  
mabloodhound
Restoration & Renovations
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Halifax, MA
Posts: 84
Liked 19 Times on 14 Posts
Likes Given: 18

Default

Vapor barriers do NOT belong on the exterior of a house. The only exterior product to use is a breathable, water shedding product like TYVEK. You do not want anything patched in on top of the sill plate.
In your link, you will note that they added the ledger (the rim joist is behind the plywood sheathing). As I said above, you will need to add 1/2" plywood over your rim and then flashing over that. I suggested using the ice & water over the plywood because it is self sealing from any nail/screw penetrations. And yes, that product from Menards is perfect and meant exactly for what I am saying.

Dave Mason
mabloodhound is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2017, 08:14 PM  
nealtw
Contractor retired
 
nealtw's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upper Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Posts: 23,035
Liked 2826 Times on 2481 Posts
Likes Given: 4660

Default

I just read some of the high lights so excuse me if I repeat what others of said.

Do the stuff under the door and save the stuff under the jack stud until you have the window out Just put a coupe studs under the header so then you can work under the jack and king.
Just to the left of the kink stud there are 3 studs together, That might be a point load and it would be more than the window jacks.
Regular lumber is fine but you want something between concrete and wood, sheet plastic would be fine for that. If that looks hard, then you could go treated but treated is wet and thicker so that could be a problem too.

Where I am the sheeting never goes down over the rim joist so don't be surprised if the rim joist is out and matches the sheeting above.


nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Security for Outswing Door (Patio) Not Sliding door securehome Windows and Doors 4 12-18-2014 05:37 AM
Enclosed sliding door Yod12 Carpentry and Woodworking 2 08-05-2014 04:53 PM
Broken Sliding Door help aleggero General Home Improvement Discussion 6 12-28-2013 01:11 AM
Sliding door wheel blocks removal of door dfphoto Windows and Doors 3 09-25-2013 08:07 PM
sliding door leak greenlabel Windows and Doors 3 04-21-2011 02:18 PM



Newest Threads