I have a Frigidaire top freezer refrigerator, p/n 218972200.
A couple days ago, the freezer started thawing out, and I noticed the compressor was not starting. It would attempt to start (with a buzzing sound), and then the overload would trip. Just for giggles, I pulled the run capacitor and it started and ran...for a while. Then it tripped off again, and wouldn't start with or without the run cap...so I think that was just a fluke (it has since run and not run, both with or without the cap). If I leave the fridge unplugged for a couple of hours, it will usually run for a while and then start the same thing again. The fan is fine, no frost build up, etc. When it does run, everything appears normal; the comp output is cold, the return lines warm and temps are nice and cold.
Figuring the compressor is bad, I checked the terminals and they read about 9.0 ohms combined and appear good; with no shorts to ground.
I was thinking maybe the defrost thermostat or timer was bad, causing the heater to remain on and drawing too much current with the comp also trying to run. So I disconnected the evap heater (so that it couldn't get current even if the timer goes into defrost mode), and pulled the defrost thermostat as well (it showed open, which I believe is correct). I also pulled the timer and jumped the red and orange compressor wires at the connector to see if the compressor would run with nothing else in line with it (except the fan). Again, sometimes the compressor runs for a while, and sometimes it just tries to start and then trips the overload.
Adjusting the cold control does cause the fan to come on/shut off as it should, and advancing the timer also turns the fan (and compressor when it's running) on and off as expected.
So...I'm hoping it's a bad PTC relay. With the compressor terminals measuring the correct resistance, and the fact that the compressor will run... what are the odds that it really is the relay and not a bad compressor?
BTW - The PTC relay has long red/white wires connected directly to it that can't be removed, but the replacement I found appears to have spade terminals on it. I assume I can just cut the factory wires and splice a couple female terminals onto it for the new relay?
Thanks much...
A couple days ago, the freezer started thawing out, and I noticed the compressor was not starting. It would attempt to start (with a buzzing sound), and then the overload would trip. Just for giggles, I pulled the run capacitor and it started and ran...for a while. Then it tripped off again, and wouldn't start with or without the run cap...so I think that was just a fluke (it has since run and not run, both with or without the cap). If I leave the fridge unplugged for a couple of hours, it will usually run for a while and then start the same thing again. The fan is fine, no frost build up, etc. When it does run, everything appears normal; the comp output is cold, the return lines warm and temps are nice and cold.
Figuring the compressor is bad, I checked the terminals and they read about 9.0 ohms combined and appear good; with no shorts to ground.
I was thinking maybe the defrost thermostat or timer was bad, causing the heater to remain on and drawing too much current with the comp also trying to run. So I disconnected the evap heater (so that it couldn't get current even if the timer goes into defrost mode), and pulled the defrost thermostat as well (it showed open, which I believe is correct). I also pulled the timer and jumped the red and orange compressor wires at the connector to see if the compressor would run with nothing else in line with it (except the fan). Again, sometimes the compressor runs for a while, and sometimes it just tries to start and then trips the overload.
Adjusting the cold control does cause the fan to come on/shut off as it should, and advancing the timer also turns the fan (and compressor when it's running) on and off as expected.
So...I'm hoping it's a bad PTC relay. With the compressor terminals measuring the correct resistance, and the fact that the compressor will run... what are the odds that it really is the relay and not a bad compressor?
BTW - The PTC relay has long red/white wires connected directly to it that can't be removed, but the replacement I found appears to have spade terminals on it. I assume I can just cut the factory wires and splice a couple female terminals onto it for the new relay?
Thanks much...
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