Water Damage Prevention

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

jfhall27

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
I've had a tough year last year with hidden water damage and rot and had to do a bunch of repairs. Now that winter is over up here in the north east (New Hampshire) I'm taking a look at a few things to see how everything held up. I attached a picture of on repair that was necessary. The rim joist was completely rotted out under this sliding door due to little to no flashing on the house. I replaced the joist, sheathing and some of the subfloor. I then replaced the sheathing with PT plywood and then wrapped the wall and rough opening with bituthene. I went all the way to the bottom of the sheathing and about 20" above the deck. Now I removed the white trim a few days ago (which is PVC board) and there was moisture behind the trim. I'm assuming this is because there is no head flashing or Z flashing (whatever you want to call it) on top of the trim. Should I be concerned about this or is this fine considering the applied bituthene? I'm a bit paranoid about hidden water damage at this point!

A picture is attached. Ggoing to be replacing all of the deck boards this year...

Thanks

WIN_20160403_12_13_40_Pro.jpg
 
Yes you should have a flashing over the door. These doors should be installed as windows are.
This is the latest procedure
.[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2VOrk1MuWY[/ame]
 
Was there any house wrap behind the siding?
Did you remove the door and wrap the flashing inside the opening or better yet add a sill pan under it?
http://jamsill.com/
With no Z molding any moisture behind the siding (and there always is) is going to run down the wall behind the trim.
 
There's no house wrap behind the siding unfortunately. I did completely remove the door and applied Grace adhesive weather shield around the and inside the entire opening and all the way to the bottom of the sheathing.

Where I believe the majority of the moisture is coming from is between the last piece of vinyl siding and the white trim right above the deck (from splash of the deck). That's where I'm referring to no Z flashing being present. When I removed that trim quickly, the weather shield behind it was a bit wet, but the sheathing is protected from that point and all the way to the bottom.
 
So if you did weather shield something like the video.
A few problems, vinyl siding is not rain tight without house wrap.
The flashing needs to be over the window.
The inside of the window need cord and caulk to hold water out.
There is a water leak or condensation in the cavity around the window with no drain at the bottom to get out.
When you had the deck boards off, was there a flashing over the ledger board to move water away from the wall and were groves cut in the bottom of the first board to allow water to get out.
 
There is flashing over the top of the door. The section that appear to get when is the section right behind the white trim to the right of the door where indicated in this picture because there is no head flashing on that piece of trim. The sheathing 20" above that point and below the deck ledger all the way to the bottom is wrapped with Grace roofing weather shield. There is a piece of bent aluminum flashing wrapping over the top of the deck ledger and yes there are grooves in the first deck board.

Trim.jpg
 
Yes there should be a flashing above that board, you can put one there now behind the starter strip for the siding.
If the lumber in the deck is treated, aluminum flashing is wrong, it should be vinyl or galvanized, the copper in the treatment will eat aluminum.:(
 
I can add that easy enough then and replace the flashing with copper. That answers the question perfectly, thanks nealtw.
 
jfhall27 said:
I can add that easy enough then and replace the flashing with copper. That answers the question perfectly, thanks nealtw.
Click to expand...

The other problem is the top of the flashing wants to be behind house wrap so it catches all the water coming down behind the siding.
 
When leakage does occur, immediate and proper action is vital to help reduce further damage and facilitate a faster return to normal operations. An Emergency Response Plan will help minimize the reaction time to an event, which helps limit the water damage from spreading to a wider area. This written plan should include details on what to do in the event of a leak or liquid damage, a repair vendor phone list and the designation of one person in authority to oversee the process. The plan should be reviewed at least once a year.
 
JaxsonSmod said:
When leakage does occur, immediate and proper action is vital to help reduce further damage and facilitate a faster return to normal operations. An Emergency Response Plan will help minimize the reaction time to an event, which helps limit the water damage from spreading to a wider area. This written plan should include details on what to do in the event of a leak or liquid damage, a repair vendor phone list and the designation of one person in authority to oversee the process. The plan should be reviewed at least once a year.
Click to expand...

Here's a plan.
http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/by-title/details-that-keep-walls-watertight/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top