I considered sheet rocking it but I do not know what the pipe is or what to do about the metal loops sticking out along the top. Any advice is very much appreciated as we have lived here over a year and could sorely user this space to reduce clutter in the living quarters of our home. Thanks!
Most paint mfg. have a product formulated for that purpose and you would patch the holes and divots with mortar.
The metal hoops are form ties that weren't cut off.
Shut the valve off and find out what does not turn on in the house.
A 2x4 wall decreases the room size by 5".
A 1-5/8" steel stud wall decreases the room size by 3-1/8" and is less labor.
Steel studs are slightly more expensive, easier to work with and do not rot.
1. Install 2x fire blocks between the floor joist even with the lower edge.
2. Strike a line 2-5/8" away from the wall on a floor joist, at or near both
ends of the proposed wall.
3. Check the level of the concrete wall and if close to plumb, strike a line 2-
5/8" out from the wall on the floor and another at the other end of where
the wall will be, mark both the floor and ceiling joist with a chalk line.
4. Paint the floor with the paint used for the walls, leaving the lie visible.
5. The trac that is used in steel stud framing are a standard 10' length. Using
a tin snips, cut two pieces the length of the wall.
6, Attach the trac to the bottom of the floor joists with 1-1/4" coarse thred
drywall screws, every other floor joist.
7. Lay a piece of sisal-kraft or other sutible barrier on the painted floor and
install the bottom trac using Tapcons, at 24"oc.
8. Cut and install the 25ga steel studs at 16"oc. using a single framing screw
at both top and bottom trac.
9. Remember to box out for the access door for the valve.
If your next step is drywall, hang the top sheet first using the 1-1/4" screws.