Moving Bathroom Sink/Vanity

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complextlt

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I have attached an image of my question...in case it doesn't work, what I basically want to do is relocate my bathroom sink/vanity to the wall right next to it. Wondering if the plumbing can stay where it is and just be extended to reach the sink.

B R.jpg
 
Welcome to the site.
There is a limit you can go from the vent. Can you map how the pipes are run into the wall ? How far will you be from a vertical pipe that goes up?
The pros should be along soon.
 
Unfortunately, I have no clue about the pipes. But the distance between where the sink drain is right now and where it would be is around 4 to 4.5 feet.
 
See if you can tell where it goes into the wall, whether it goes into an elbo or a tee.?
Can you figure out where the main stack it by looking at the roof from outside?
 
using your tape measure, can you mark on your floor plan lay out

where the existing plumbing is. onto the new floor plan?

B R.jpg
 
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I attached another image of the floor plan, as well as an image of the current plumbing. It is 82" from the left wall to the spot perpendicular to where the plumbing comes out of the wall; and 42" from where the plumbing is to where I would like to extend it. If I understand what you're asking, where the drain is coming out of the wall (I guess it actually goes INto the wall, but nevertheless), it comes straight out, then turns left a little before dipping downward and finally going up into the sink.

So, I'm basically wondering if the drain and the hot and cold lines can be extended to that position on the new floor plan ... the left side of the new vanity would butt up against the wall where the plumbing is currently, so I guess holes would be made in the side of the vanity for the plumbing to be extended to where the sink will be.

sink drain.jpg

bathroom floor plan 2.png
 
Let's try this again. Some where bhind the sink, toilet or tub on that wall is a pipe going up thru the roof. That pipe is a vent stack. So we are trying to figure out how far over it from where your pipe enters the wall. Then we add that figure to your 42" for the length of your new run.
In the photo there is an air vent just below your pipe perhaps you could remove that and feel around to see what the pipe is doing inside the wall.
PS: that is a bad place for an air vent and maybe there just to hide a hole from an earlier plumbing repair.
 
need to know what state you are in for what code you are under bathroom floor plan 2.png
 
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Live in Alabama.

Will check behind the vent this evening.

The measurement from the left WALL to the center of the current sink is 82". Or do you mean from the TUB to the center of the sink?
 
It looks like the vent pipe comes up from the floor and goes straight into the wall (the second wall behind the "sink wall". So, I guess that means from that pipe to where the new (extended) plumbing would be is about 42". And yes, the vent cover is simply to cover a big hole. Bonus info: a plumber previously was looking back there, stuck his hand in and was splashing around in water. Isn't that lovely?
 
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Ok, I'm still not sure we have the answer yet, Just to clairify. The drain pipe goes down thru the floor and there is another pipe (vent pipe )that goes sideways and is attached to the drain pipe.
 
Your vent issue is easily solved by using an Air Admittance Valve in the drain. The picture provides a typical under-sink application. This allows "air behind water" and stops sewer gasses from re-entering the room. Since it is accessible for maintenance, it should pass inspection.

We use these in remodel situations which prevent easy connection to existing vents. Your only challenge is the drain pipe itself. Your best bet would be 2" pipe but 1 1/2" is common and typically allowed. (Remember: Many sink drains are 1 1/4" at the tail pipe so a simple plastic adapter washer that takes you from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" is used) You will need a slope of at least 1/8" per foot from the end of the p-trap to the drain stack connection. If you are stuck with multiple 90 degree turns, a steeper slope is preferred. However, your distance to the drain stack is less than 6 feet, so I believe you are good to go.

AAV PIC.jpg
 
ok, your alabama, so its IPC code. your good to go on the length. if it was upc. you would have problems.

looks to me like all your going to need to do is put a coupling on your drain pipe and extend it

are you going to build a 1/2 wall for vanity to sit against? if so, line the wall up with the plumbing drain pipe.
 
CallMeVilla said:
Your vent issue is easily solved by using an Air Admittance Valve in the drain. The picture provides a typical under-sink application. This allows "air behind water" and stops sewer gasses from re-entering the room. Since it is accessible for maintenance, it should pass inspection.

We use these in remodel situations which prevent easy connection to existing vents. Your only challenge is the drain pipe itself. Your best bet would be 2" pipe but 1 1/2" is common and typically allowed. (Remember: Many sink drains are 1 1/4" at the tail pipe so a simple plastic adapter washer that takes you from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" is used) You will need a slope of at least 1/8" per foot from the end of the p-trap to the drain stack connection. If you are stuck with multiple 90 degree turns, a steeper slope is preferred. However, your distance to the drain stack is less than 6 feet, so I believe you are good to go.
Click to expand...


that fitting is illegal
1003.0 traps described
1003.2
No more than one [1] approved slip joint fitting may be used on the outlet side of the trap
 
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