Water under sill plate

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Peter3

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I have a attached garage built in 1988 with 2x6 construction and T1-11 siding on it.
No barrier between sill plate and concrete foundation. No barrier between studs and siding. Just the T1-11 attached to the studs.

Some spots have leaks under the sill plate because the siding comes down to just the top of the concrete foundation.

What I was going to do is put down some of that window wrap the real sticky stuff by prying up the siding where it meets the sill and going under the siding a few inches and then down over the concrete foundation another few inches to seal it off. Any suggestions on this working or a simpler way? I've tried caulk, spray foam etc. dries up and doesn't work well.
 
Peter3 said:
I have a attached garage built in 1988 with 2x6 construction and T1-11 siding on it.
No barrier between sill plate and concrete foundation. No barrier between studs and siding. Just the T1-11 attached to the studs.

Some spots have leaks under the sill plate because the siding comes down to just the top of the concrete foundation.

What I was going to do is put down some of that window wrap the real sticky stuff by prying up the siding where it meets the sill and going under the siding a few inches and then down over the concrete foundation another few inches to seal it off. Any suggestions on this working or a simpler way? I've tried caulk, spray foam etc. dries up and doesn't work well.
Click to expand...

Possibly a wide vinyl molding that will lower the drip edge below the bottom of the T1-!!.
 
Post a picture of that outside wall so we can see what your seeing.
How close is the grade to the bottom of the wall.
Any siding should not have been within 6" of grade.
Any gutters?
 
you're first problem is the t1-11. I've had several jobs where it was almost the same problem i take a 3 x 3 piece of metal pry the bottom loose and remove any nails half of them are probably loose or pulled through and push the metal in behind it and down till it sits on the concrete do it all around and then re nail with 8d ringshanked nails not the twist kind they'll back out over time .hope this helps
 
Thanks for all the replies.
-Snoonyb initially I thought that was a simple idea so I started to take off the siding a little bit and boy what a can of worms (or ants) I opened up. As I got down the right side wall I found carpenter ants, so I replaced all the bad wood there.

-joecaption, I've marked up some picture of where I'm at now. The grade at its lowest point is <6" and I can fix that.

-butch23, someone told me once (maybe 5 years ago) to place a piece of aluminum behind like you said to do with the steel, however I'm not sure if it's multiple problems but it looks like the wood got punky up to the point where the aluminum ended.

So now I'm a bit over my head with this project. I was going to cut off the bottom 1 foot of crap on those areas (already cut the left side) and tape it up put some old tar paper I have over the whole deal then re-cover with T1-11 again. ( I have 6 sheets of that from Lowes) 6 would cover those areas, 1 is 10'+ and the other is 12'.

The mess is still in the gutter area

Here is a link to the pictures, I can put them here if needed.

https://goo.gl/photos/Pf1gQ4rc2R6iX7BS9
 
I am not an expert, but where the t-111 got punky due to the aluminum suggests that water is getting behind the t111 above that, running down the wall and going over the aluminum soaking the back of the t111. I would also have used pressure treated lumber for the repairs to twart both the water and the ants.
 
jeffmattero76 Thanks for the reply. I did like you said and agree with the pressure treated, redone and sealed up. I pulled the aluminum out but didn't pay attention to it...I think i can go look up top to see if there is another issue. Lots of issues for me not being a professional by any means.

I removed the bottom foot or so, taped the sill and seams all around and plywood stuff up. Going to have install new T1-11 over it another time. Next time I think I'm gonna ask for a pro to do it :) Being cheap sometimes is not worth the headache.
 
A big issue with T111 is the horizontal flashing between sheets. You use a Z flashing but because of the grooves in the siding, it allows gaps for water to seep in behind the lower sheet, especially from wind driven rain.
Also, because of the texture, it doesn't shed water very well and any back splash from a rain storm gets drawn up at the section near the ground.
 
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