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Old 10-30-2017, 10:22 PM  
slownsteady
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Default "Sweat spots" on basement floor

Let's just say my basement renovation project is a long-term thing. I've started and stopped on it so many times it's starting to get silly.
For the most part, my walk-out basement is dry. But in the warm weather the floor gets these sweat spots...a small area of dampness here and there. Water doesn't form because it has enough ventilation, but as I am discovering now that I want to put flooring down, if I put plastic over the floor, the sweat spots become wet spots.
i have tried concrete resurfacer and I have treated with lithium silicate, but I have not slowed it down enough to cover with the vinyl floor covering I plan to use.
So what's my next step? Epoxy? Do I have to drill to relieve the pressure? Can I pipe to the outside on the lower side (the walk-out side) with some kind of open pipe system?


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Old 10-30-2017, 10:42 PM  
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You have high water table and fill under the floor that does not allow movement to the low side. If you have a drain across the walkout. you may need to trench out from the wet areas. The perimeter around the high side is not working.


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Old 12-31-2017, 07:26 PM  
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some epoxies function as vapor barriers however they won't stop water which comes up & in above the floor elevation,,, think sub-floor drainage system + sump pump
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:40 PM  
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No coating is going to stop water from coming up through the floor!
High water table is a valid issue, another is lack of gutters with drain tiles away from the foundation, mulch or flower beds forming forming ponds, no drain tiles around the foundation.
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Old 01-01-2018, 06:20 AM  
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defining 'drain tile' for younger folks: once upon a time, there was pipe named 'orangeburg' (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orangeburg_pipe),,, it became popular & was used in sewer lines & ext/int home sub-surface drain lines,,, there was also another fired clay product by the same name,,, it was often avail in 18" lengths & was often called 'tiles',,, generally 4" hdpe corrugated pipe is used now &, sometimes, its even installed correctly
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:33 AM  
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OK, high water table, but why only in warm weather? High humidity prevents the ever-present water from evaporating fast enough?

Does the location & pattern of wet spots give you any clues? Maybe you can rule out some causes.
You could drill small test holes to check for water table height, and then patch them, before committing to a major project.

I've also heard that some methods of excavation give an under-the-house high water table whereas the table is lower farther from the house where no earth was disturbed.

We have a sump pump.
One day we had 4" of rain and it was a day or two before the level went up by 2", so there was a time delay and some of the water went elsewhere.

A dehumidifier may work and so then you have a continuing cost to the PoCo vs. a large one-time lump sum of time or money for excavation.
You may need a dehumidifier anyway.

Speaking of sump pumps, I am not sure whether water touching the bottom surface of concrete is enough for it to wick to the top surface, or the water would have to be at or above the level of the top surface of concrete.

http://www.google.com/search?q=%22wa....0.8Ws1IPVR1DU

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Old 01-02-2018, 06:15 AM  
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all wtr has to do is touch the conc floor's btm,,, from then on, its capillary action sucking up wtr

' One day we had 4" of rain and it was a day or two before the level went up by 2", so there was a time delay and some of the water went elsewhere.' its likely the wtr soaked into surrounding soil til said soil hit saturation point (rejection of more wtr)
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:19 PM  
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Gutters are in place and drain well beyond the house. No mulch or flower beds on the "walk-out side" (rear) of the basement. On the front side of the house, where the basement is below grade, there isn't any drain tiles to my knowledge.
I'm not too keen on drilling holes into the basement floor...seems like it would be a weak spot and invite water infiltration. I don't have a sump pit, and until i started thinking about this problem, I didn't think I needed one. I'm not too thrilled about having to put one in now.
I have been entertaining this wacky theory that if I drilled sideways below grade and under the slab to put in a pressure relief pipe that would drain to lower ground, that I could bleed off the water below the foundation. But I'm sure that would be an expensive experiment that I will never get around to.
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Old 01-03-2018, 06:16 AM  
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stdy, remember my nj bsmnt wtrproofing co yrs ago ? after 1st retirement ? bsmnt wtr can occur, even on top of a mountain, easier than 1 might think,,, look 1st to the buried sections of bsmnt walls,,,coring/drilling holes may cause wtr to take path of least resistance & bubble up out of them
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Old 01-03-2018, 06:51 AM  
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Each option could make things better, have no effect, or maybe even make things worse.

And which to try first, assuming you need more than one fix?

Hopefully doing one thing does not prevent your being able to do others.

This is quite a decision problem.


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