Laundary Room Relocation

With warm wet air and a cold wall I would not leave that wall open Mold issues. I would plan on replacing the insulation and drywall as I was doing this leaving the trap and stand pipe in the room.
I would not run the supply lines in that outside wall either.

Y not run water supply lines in it? Other walls in the basement have them running alone outside walls.

I live where they might freeze so it against code here.

jr7 said:

So when looking at the picture where do I put the wye and do I reduce in size to a 2"? How is this done? Thanks...

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This explains the requirements for a washer drain installation;https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/m...rts/29535-washing-machine-standpipe-and-drain

Were you to install a santee, it would be between the drain hub and the wye, however this may, depending upon that dimension, require reworking the existing wye, because of the distance above the floor, and the fitting can be purchased as 4/2/4 santee.

I'm not the plumber here (I bet Frodo or another plumber is reading this thread and chuckling), but here's my take without too much detail.
*The plug in your main drain line is a cleanout. Keep it intact and available should you ever need it.
*I would not connect anything to the main drain directly; that would be asking for trouble (that's why you need a stand pipe)
*The p-trap is necessary to keep odors from traveling back into your washer.

So your objective is to connect above the main line- using a trap and some kind of anti-siphon protection for good measure (as it would suck to have sewage back up into your machine for whatever freakish and ungodly reason).

I will let the pros fill in the details.

If I am off-base with any of this, let's hear it from someone with first-hand knowledge.

you said the manufacture says you can pump up 96''

remove the plug that is at 26'' install a male adaptor and...

frodo said:

you said the manufacture says you can pump up 96''

remove the plug that is at 26'' install a male adaptor and...

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I understand this, however my, unasked, question is if there is an obstruction beyond the cleanout, the laundry room and basement have not been visited for a couple of days and 6' of head pressure has built up in the drain and vent, will the new washer standpipe be overtopped?

It is also why I asked about an evac. system being in place.

Murphy's law.

Snoonyb said:

I understand this, however my, unasked, question is if there is an obstruction beyond the cleanout, the laundry room and basement have not been visited for a couple of days and 6' of head pressure has built up in the drain and vent, will the new washer standpipe be overtopped?

It is also why I asked about an evac. system being in place.

Murphy's law.

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i see your concern, install a 2'' back water valve between the 45 an the vent tee

Thanks.

I expect the next point will be the distance from the wall.

Simple and convenient, 2 out of 3 a'int bad.

cant help you there..it is what it is.

you could always bring the wall out to cover the plumbing

Agreed, and the alternatives would be far more intrusive and disruptive.

I'm good to go on the drawing you gave me so understand pretty much what I need. Just supporting it all and how to cover it is the tricky part. I think I will just run it out of the wall and build a frame around the plumbing with a door in it and have like a counter top on it.

Currently where I'm at with the room. I had to tear out some drywall due to finding some mold in the drywall. Thank god no mold on the studs or insulation

So I picked up all the stuff I need except they didn't have a back water valve which I'm gonna look at another store tomorrow for it. Does this layout look to be correct? Also could I snake the main drain line around and put it in the same wall the drain line is in? Does the vent need to be exposed so it can be gotten to?

jr7 said:

So I picked up all the stuff I need except they didn't have a back water valve which I'm gonna look at another store tomorrow for it. Does this layout look to be correct? Also could I snake the main drain line around and put it in the same wall the drain line is in? Does the vent need to be exposed so it can be gotten to?

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sorry, i have no idea what you are asking.

I think he's asking if he can recess the 2" back into the wall and if the AAV vent needs to be exposed.

Snoonyb said:

I think he's asking if he can recess the 2" back into the wall and if the AAV vent needs to be exposed.

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Exactly what I'm asking

yes the aav needs to be exposed. you can offset the piping into the wall if you wish.

if your offset is more than 135 degrees you will need to add a clean out

jr7 said:

Exactly what I'm asking

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I'm going to make some observations here.

While the illustrations in msg's #26 & #28 appear to be at an angle, they are actually strait lines, IE., the line from 1 to 3 extends strait out from the existing cleanout, relocating the cleanout strait out from where it now is.

Using the fitting you have, in the manner you have them laid out will necessitate additional space for or having to move an appliance to access the cleanout, however it facilitates immersing the piping into the wall in a shorter distance from the cleanout.

There are tradeoffs.

There is a required rise/fall for waste line, so a 6" plumbers level, which is graduated, would be an investment to consider.

I would reverse the 3" street 45, purchase a no hub, hub, hub 3"x2" wye, a short length of 2" pipe, 2" backflow preventer, a 2" street 1/16th bend, a length of pipe to get you into the wall, another 2" street 1/16th bend, the 2" vent Tee, a short length of pipe, a 2" glue trap.The 2" standpipe can 45 out of the drywall and the AAV vent 90's to the drywall surface.

By example, the 3x3x2 wye you have is a hub, hub, hub fitting, the Tee you have for a vent Tee, is actually a sanitary Tee and is not meant to be installed horizontally.

If you are attempting to find all these parts at a hdw store, you might want to save yourself some driving time and visit an actual plumbing supplier.

Very busy with work so I'm finally back to this project. I just got the 2" pvc check valve (backwater valve) and it's the type with the spring not the flap inside. They guy at the store tmsaid this is the type is want so I went with it. So I've decided I am gonna recess the 2" into the wall so I can run it into a standard box for the drain and water supply for the washer. The exposed 3" wye is going to be covered by a counter top and cabinets I plan on adding where the closet used to be. The closet is where the main drain Line comes from. It will leave it out of site but easily accessible. Once that plumbing is done I'll be routing in the hot and cold water lines to the box that holds the drain and water supply for washer. Other than that I just need to wire in the 220 for the dryer (I'm no electrician so I won't even attempt it by myself, since I have so many electrician friends). Lastly will be drywall and cabinets that the wife chooses.