Custom Door Dimensions

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Supershine

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Hi guys,

I need to install a door in a rough opening of 39" wide X 77.75" high. Standard pre-hung doors require an 82" rough opening.

Ordering a door with custom dimensions is absurdly expensive so I was thinking of buying a standard pre-hung door and cutting a little more than 4" off the bottom of the door and frame. However, this will cause the double bores to be approximately 4" too low.

My latest idea is to cut 2" off the top of the door and frame and a little more than 2" off the bottom of the door and frame to keep the bores at the right height.

My gut tells me this is going to be difficult with lots of room for error. Does anyone have any ideas to help or any advice?

Thanks!
 
Is changing the framing out of the question? Why?
A solid core door I would cut the top, that leaves the hardware in the right place but really screws up the hinges.
I would call the lumberyards that don't carry doors, ask for the service deck and ask them, where a good place is for a custom door Big box is out of the question. If you have Windser Plywood there some of them deal in doors..
After that I would by a slab door and hang it myself there are cheap kits for drilling the holes. Just use hinges with sq corners so you can chisel them in.
 
I agree to a point, reframing the opening will be far easier and cheaper so a standard door will fit.
 
Just get an unbored, flush, prehung door, cut as much as you need off of the bottom. Install the door. Drill your bores for lock and latch after it's installed and at the appropriate locations.
Frankly, it could be a 6 panel door, but even if the bores are a bit higher than normal, is that really an issue? I don't think so.
 
beachguy005 said:
Just get an unbored, flush, prehung door, cut as much as you need off of the bottom. Install the door. Drill your bores for lock and latch after it's installed and at the appropriate locations.
Frankly, it could be a 6 panel door, but even if the bores are a bit higher than normal, is that really an issue? I don't think so.
Click to expand...

It does look dumb with a hinge 3" from the bottom.:2cents:
 
Ok...3" from the bottom or 1" from the top.....I'll take the 3...fact is, it would never be noticed.
 
Yes, changing the framing is out of the question. This is for a basement entrance with a steel lintel above and a concrete riser on the bottom which is about 4 inches above the outside grade.

I was thinking of a steel insulated door instead of wood. Unfortunately, I've looked everywhere and am not able to find an unbored steel door. I don't know why it's so hard to find.

I'm thinking of different window size options in the door that would mask the odd door handle height and possibly different handle sets that would do the same.

I've also found a discount door place that can cut a door down for me at a reasonable price considering how much hassle is involved with this, so I'll likely let them do it.

Neal, thanks for the advice about the hinge kits. I'll look into that as well.
 
I just thought of one more question.

Does anyone know about that block of wood in the bore locations within the steel door. I believe it is used for reinforcement.

If I get someone to order an unbored door, will that block be big enough to accept both bores in the new location or will one or both bores be in the door with only insulation in the middle instead of the wood?

No door specialists seem to know the answer to that question.
 
I haven’t seen steel doors made to be altered at all. They are normally part of a system intended to be installed as they are designed to work. That’s not saying a good tin smith couldn’t alter one. The cheap ones are a steel skin inside and outside attached to a wood frame. The quality ones are an all steel frame and welded and filled with foam. The trouble is with cutting and re-welding that foam is going to catch fire and all around make the job tough.

Can you post a few photos of what you have now?
 
Supershine said:
Yes, changing the framing is out of the question. This is for a basement entrance with a steel lintel above and a concrete riser on the bottom which is about 4 inches above the outside grade.

I was thinking of a steel insulated door instead of wood. Unfortunately, I've looked everywhere and am not able to find an unbored steel door. I don't know why it's so hard to find.

I'm thinking of different window size options in the door that would mask the odd door handle height and possibly different handle sets that would do the same.

I've also found a discount door place that can cut a door down for me at a reasonable price considering how much hassle is involved with this, so I'll likely let them do it.

Neal, thanks for the advice about the hinge kits. I'll look into that as well.
Click to expand...

You haven't heard all the questions yet. Pictures inside and out top and bottom of doorway or 4000 words which ever is quicker.

The kit I was talking about was for drilling the holes for the locks
 
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