Framing a wide opening

I'm currently framing a wide opening between my dining room and entryway in a non-load-bearing wall. Do any of you have advice on what style of header to use to keep it from sagging in the middle?

My initial plan was to use a 2x4 laying flat with a 2x6 header above that, but it seems like overkill and only leaves me with about 4 inches for cripple studs on the top. I'm now considering using a 2x4 laying flat, then putting a pair of 2x4s on edge on top of that. That way I get the edge on strength of the lumber, but still have reasonably long cripple studs.

Thoughts?

When you put a couple cripples in it won’t sag. If the gap is that small it is really no different than the space between two studs and you trust the drywall to bridge that. It is just a partition and IMO only has to be strong enough to hold the drywall.
Will you be cutting out the plate on the bottom? Will the wall be getting big doors in the opening?

Why do you even need that 2 X 4 laying flat?
Only need a 2 X 6 header. (two 2 X 6's and a piece of 1/2 sheathing between them.)
Not going to need cripples for that short a distance on a nonload bearing wall.

bud16415 said:

When you put a couple cripples in it won’t sag. If the gap is that small it is really no different than the space between two studs and you trust the drywall to bridge that. It is just a partition and IMO only has to be strong enough to hold the drywall.
Will you be cutting out the plate on the bottom? Will the wall be getting big doors in the opening?

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Yes I am cutting out the plate at the bottom. I used to that to make sure the bottom was level (my floor slopes by 1.5" from right to left in the image).

I will not be putting doors in the opening.

I suppose you are right that a couple of cripple studs would be enough to keep it in place.

joecaption said:

Why do you even need that 2 X 4 laying flat?
Only need a 2 X 6 header. (two 2 X 6's and a piece of 1/2 sheathing between them.)
Not going to need cripples for that short a distance on a nonload bearing wall.

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The 2x4 laying flat was/is my way of ensuring that I have something to nail drywall to that I know is flush with the studs on both sides. No other reason.

A single 2x4 like that could always warp as it dries out and that would be the only fear I would have. Doing it the way Joe suggests minimizes that. Around here they sell two types of studs the normal building type that are prone to warp until you have them attached good. and then they sell a type like they all used to be when I was a kid and they are kiln dried and have a waxy paint on the end grain. No one uses them much for framing anymore as they are about 2X price wise. But for small DIY jobs I always go for them as material costs are nothing compared to labor savings. If I was using that type wood I would feel good with a single piece as you show but to play it safe a double header is smart spaced to come out the right width.

Every two feet put a 2x4 block between the joist above, that give you something to nail both drywall and the plate to, then short blocks down to the sill.
I didn't read all the pots so it may have been said already.

I would just fill the existing gap with 2x4 cripples continuing the 16" on center spacing of the wall studs. there's no weight there to support.

You are not just holding the peice up there you are stopping it from warping.
Just like any non bearing wall that does not have anything to attach to.
When building a house when the wall is there before the joists or trusses we lay the 2x6 on top the wall for drywall backing and theen add blocks between joists or trusses.
Back framing from below like what is happening here, we first put the blocks between the joists, snap a line where the wall will go and then nail up the plate. A block every 2 ft is plenty for drywall backing.

SeattleCraftsman said:

I'm currently framing a wide opening between my dining room and entryway in a non-load-bearing wall. Do any of you have advice on what style of header to use to keep it from sagging in the middle?

My initial plan was to use a 2x4 laying flat with a 2x6 header above that, but it seems like overkill and only leaves me with about 4 inches for cripple studs on the top. I'm now considering using a 2x4 laying flat, then putting a pair of 2x4s on edge on top of that. That way I get the edge on strength of the lumber, but still have reasonably long cripple studs.

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

:hide:In the background we see new door and windows, we consider all exterior walls as load bearing although some are more than others. They all should have headers. We don't calculate anything just use double 2x10s if they fit and the engineer dosn't request more, any opening 5 ft or more should have at least 2 jack studs under each end of the header.