afjes_2016
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I have seen in the field switches with 4 screws (4 ways) where one screw did not have a conductor when dealing with K&T for 3 way set ups (yuk hate this stuff).
Three way switch doesn't work properly...
- Thread starter rebelboiis221101
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rebelboiis221101
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Let me re clarify here that I am dealing with two DIFFERENT lights both with two switches each on their own circuits. With that stated once again I've looked for a color it's just not there. These switches for sure do NOT have ground screws as no other outlet or single pole switch had one at the time of replacing them. The really old looking switches have 3 screws. They are all on the FRONT of the switch not the sides like newer ones. If I use a voltage tester on the switches in the gang downstairs. I get as follows. (Light means voltage) switch 1 ON: top right LIGHT bottom right LIGHT bottom left LIGHT but dimmer than other 2? OFF: top right nothing bottem right LIGHT bottom left dim agian. Switch 2 ON: can't seem to get a solid light altho it blinks for a moment OFF: top left nothing top right LIGHT Bottom right nothing. PLEASE let me repete switch 1 is one light and one circuit switch to is another different light and different circuit.
rebelboiis221101
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Let me ask if I where to upload a YouTube video of me simply testing each wire for voltage in the "on/off" position would that be of any help?
That was before your time, not mine. screws have been on switches for a long time.
Not necessarily, and unfortunately you are probably going to have to ring these conductors out.
1st you need to establish the hot pair.
rebelboiis221101
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https://youtu.be/Rw5JyJZSd-U
Maybe this can help with determining something. Please ignore the babies as it's close to bed time and an ornre momma who's well ornre lol.
Maybe this can help with determining something. Please ignore the babies as it's close to bed time and an ornre momma who's well ornre lol.
As asked, how did you determine they were on separate circuits, because that would be odd?
rebelboiis221101
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Maybe I've used a wrong word there but it goes like this I have one light upstairs with two switches one at top of stairs and one at bottom. I have another light downstairs with two switches one at top and at bottom BOTH do not work as a three way should. Both have their own switches and their own light. 2 different lights with 4 switches in total. Is that what is being asked?
Both controlled individually
Actually your intent was to differentiate between switch legs, not circuits.
I still think you are going to have to ring the conductors out.
rebelboiis221101
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Not to sure what you mean. I'm very new to this.
Use an actual volts meter and voltage across the screws on the switch. On one pair you will get zero volts. Flip the switch and measure again. One of the two screws that measured zero will now measure zero to the other screw. The screw that measure zero in both cases is the common.
This would be better done in daylight.
1st, the tester you are using is a proximity tester, and you'll need a VOM (volt, ohm, meter) and it doesn't need to be expensive.
2nd, if you have fuses or breaker you'll need to shut the one off that controls the light switches you want to work on.
3rd, disassemble the 2 switches that control the stairway light. if you can remember where the wires go, or you can label them.
Turn the power back on and find which conductor/s have power, It should only be one.
With the power back off, twist the other 2 conductor form one of the switches together, and with the VOM on an ohms scale attach the leades to the 2 conductors of the other switch, and if there is continuity the meter will deflect to "0".
1st, the tester you are using is a proximity tester, and you'll need a VOM (volt, ohm, meter) and it doesn't need to be expensive.
2nd, if you have fuses or breaker you'll need to shut the one off that controls the light switches you want to work on.
3rd, disassemble the 2 switches that control the stairway light. if you can remember where the wires go, or you can label them.
Turn the power back on and find which conductor/s have power, It should only be one.
With the power back off, twist the other 2 conductor form one of the switches together, and with the VOM on an ohms scale attach the leades to the 2 conductors of the other switch, and if there is continuity the meter will deflect to "0".
rebelboiis221101
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It's done and done in the night [emoji50]. Its all working how it should and I ended up just going out and replacing all the switches and so if in the future I need to replace again I'll know by black screw lol. Thank you all for the advice but this one got me on the track to getting it working. So again thank you all! [emoji16][emoji3][emoji16]! Im sure we will meet again as I plan on taking on afew other projects in the future!
