Allseason Room Siding Renew + Insulation and Windows Depth issue

Hello Folks,
I have a house with large attached wood framed all season room. Currently, I am trying to change the siding (deteriorating and peeling off hard cardboard quality stuff) to toge and groove wood siding boards (have been painted already). But I am also adding insulation to the exterior side of the wall (behind the siding). The problem is that tit would substantially increase the thickness of the exterior wall and the windows would be far behind the siding , plus there would be a gap between the windows frame the the wall. Situation depicted below:



I don't see how to use a windows jamb extension in this case. So, I was wondering about a possible solution.

You could use thinner foam or just build up the window frame by just stacking up 3/4in pine and ripping it to the same width of the window frame and just continue to stack until you get to the thickness you need

As paulf615 said, you're going to need to install exterior extension jambs. I'm not sure if 3/4 pine stock will be thick enough, depends on the thickness of insulation and siding. You might consider using trim referred to as Brick Mold. You can get it in pine or PVC at the box stores and is about 1.25" thick and about as wide.
Depending on how and what your windows are made of will determine how you would attach it to the existing frames.

So when you have condensation around these windows there will be no way for water to drain out. I would pull the windows fill the sppace behind the trim to the same thickness as the old siding, do a proper installation of the windows (Rain Screen Window Installation).

paulf615 said:

You could use thinner foam or just build up the window frame by just stacking up 3/4in pine and ripping it to the same width of the window frame and just continue to stack until you get to the thickness you need

Click to expand...

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paulf615 said:

You could use thinner foam or just build up the window frame by just stacking up 3/4in pine and ripping it to the same width of the window frame and just continue to stack until you get to the thickness you need

Click to expand...

I am already using the thinnest rigid foam panel: 1/2 inches. Some people argue that the insulation on the outside face of the exterior wall is more effective. Yeah, the 3/4 strips of pine would do it; but maybe I could also use a larger piece of wood, cut it to size, trim the edge with a edge profile with a router to smooth the appearance. But, then, when it come the time to attach it to the wall should I seal it with caulk or something else? In terms of apperances either way would work, but I am more concerned about water/moisture penetration

thk!

beachguy005 said:

As paulf615 said, you're going to need to install exterior extension jambs. I'm not sure if 3/4 pine stock will be thick enough, depends on the thickness of insulation and siding. You might consider using trim referred to as Brick Mold. You can get it in pine or PVC at the box stores and is about 1.25" thick and about as wide.
Depending on how and what your windows are made of will determine how you would attach it to the existing frames.

Click to expand...

Most of the time it seems that the trim mold is more of a decorative type of thing, unless one makes the trimmold out of wood to fit the application. Likely I still would have to cut it to the right dimension but sure can be a good option at the 1.25" size and should do it for me. I will look them next time I am at a store. But I would rather have a monolithic and continuous piece of wood instead of having pieces glued and screwed in areas exposed to mostuire/water.

I believe that the windows are made of of vinyl, but I am not sure.

thks!

nealtw said:

So when you have condensation around these windows there will be no way for water to drain out. I would pull the windows fill the sppace behind the trim to the same thickness as the old siding, do a proper installation of the windows (Rain Screen Window Installation).

Click to expand...

Yeah, it has not slope and is square the water will stay still there but I put a piece of wood with a rounded edge profile (done with a router) and a time slight slope it should work out too. Granted that moving the windows forward would be a better solution, but that would entail removing wall panels, windows trim, windows jamb, ceiling (needed in order to remove panel unless I break it) etc, from the inside

thks