zepper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2009
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Hey guys,
We're doing some remodeling, and I'd like to update our turned-wood banister and routed stair rail:
(Apologies to any members who may still consider this style fashionable, BTW. :?)
I'm pretty handy, but I've never done this type of project, and can't find anything related on the Web. Do you mind giving me your input?
The area between the end posts is 9' 6". So I figured I'd replace the spindles with three 36" tempered glass panels, such as these. This leaves a 1.5" gap between each panel, and between each end panel and post, which is fine.
We don't want metal framing. Instead, I thought I'd just trim the routed sides off of existing top rail and stair rail, and make slightly smaller, straight end posts. Here's my plan:
1. Remove the stair rail.
2. Remove the banister top rail (secured with screws at either end, visible in photos) and spindles. (The spindles just sit in cutouts; I know this from disassembling the balustrade at the foot of the stairs.)
3. Remove the newel (front) post and rear half-post.
4. Remove and discard the bolt plugs in the base, so the base is flat.
5. Rip the shaped sides of the top and stair rails down to straight surfaces, and sand down the corners.
6. Make a bottom guide for the glass panels, consisting of:
(Pardon my less-than-realistic 3D drawing.)
7. Glue and clamp the guides to the inserts:
8. When that's dry, glue and temporarily toenail-screw the guide to the center of the existing banister base (having pre-drilled the screw holes):
9. When that's dry, remove the screws and fill the holes (which probably won't be too visible behind the glass, but let's be thorough, shall we?).
10. Create corresponding panel slots in the bottom of the top rail by dadoing and adding inserts. (I'll actually use the rail upside-down, so the screws to the posts enter from the bottom rather than the topwhat were they thinking?)
11. Insert gaskets into the slots in the base and top rail. (The dealer I linked to above also carries gaskets for these panels.)
12. Make a straight (natural) 3.5" square oak newel post (matching the width of the banister's base) and a 3.5 x 2" half-post (.5" drywall depth plus 1.5" exposed post); drill necessary holes in each.
13. Install everything.
(continued...)
We're doing some remodeling, and I'd like to update our turned-wood banister and routed stair rail:
(Apologies to any members who may still consider this style fashionable, BTW. :?)
I'm pretty handy, but I've never done this type of project, and can't find anything related on the Web. Do you mind giving me your input?
The area between the end posts is 9' 6". So I figured I'd replace the spindles with three 36" tempered glass panels, such as these. This leaves a 1.5" gap between each panel, and between each end panel and post, which is fine.
We don't want metal framing. Instead, I thought I'd just trim the routed sides off of existing top rail and stair rail, and make slightly smaller, straight end posts. Here's my plan:
1. Remove the stair rail.
2. Remove the banister top rail (secured with screws at either end, visible in photos) and spindles. (The spindles just sit in cutouts; I know this from disassembling the balustrade at the foot of the stairs.)
3. Remove the newel (front) post and rear half-post.
4. Remove and discard the bolt plugs in the base, so the base is flat.
5. Rip the shaped sides of the top and stair rails down to straight surfaces, and sand down the corners.
6. Make a bottom guide for the glass panels, consisting of:
Two oak rails the same length as the base
Four 1.5" oak inserts
(Pardon my less-than-realistic 3D drawing.)
7. Glue and clamp the guides to the inserts:
8. When that's dry, glue and temporarily toenail-screw the guide to the center of the existing banister base (having pre-drilled the screw holes):
9. When that's dry, remove the screws and fill the holes (which probably won't be too visible behind the glass, but let's be thorough, shall we?).
10. Create corresponding panel slots in the bottom of the top rail by dadoing and adding inserts. (I'll actually use the rail upside-down, so the screws to the posts enter from the bottom rather than the topwhat were they thinking?)
11. Insert gaskets into the slots in the base and top rail. (The dealer I linked to above also carries gaskets for these panels.)
12. Make a straight (natural) 3.5" square oak newel post (matching the width of the banister's base) and a 3.5 x 2" half-post (.5" drywall depth plus 1.5" exposed post); drill necessary holes in each.
13. Install everything.
(continued...)
Last edited: