Water pipe/lines behind drywall

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Ls181

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I'm getting ready to install some shadow boxes on two walls in our living area. I'm a bit hesitant because the kitchen sink, is right behind one wall. And the other, I know there's a line there also, I can hear water drain when the sink is on. I planned on using a finish nailer with 18 gauge 1 1/4" nails. I would really hate to hit one of the pipes/lines. How close do the lines get to the drywall? I'm in Texas btw, I know it varies by state.

Thanks for any input..
 
Everything is usually set so a drywall screw won't hit anything and the screws are 1 1/4, you should be fine. Sometimes a toilet stack will be close to the drywall but other than that.
 
Ls181 said:
I'm getting ready to install some shadow boxes on two walls in our living area. I'm a bit hesitant because the kitchen sink, is right behind one wall. And the other, I know there's a line there also, I can hear water drain when the sink is on. I planned on using a finish nailer with 18 gauge 1 1/4" nails. I would really hate to hit one of the pipes/lines. How close do the lines get to the drywall? I'm in Texas btw, I know it varies by state.

Thanks for any input..
Click to expand...

Shadow boxes constructed from what?

Are they attached directly to the bare studs, through a cleat, to the finished wall and is the wall drywall.

If it is attached though a 3/4" cleat, through 1/2" drywall, depending upon the set of the nailer, you may, using 1-1/4" nails, obtain a 1/32" to 1/8" penetration into a framing member, and it will probably just fall off.
 
This is the wall behind the sink, three boxes will go here. 5" from the carpet and 5" from the chair rail. 21"x21" boxes directly on to the drywall, mdf trim 1/2" thick.






 
Ls181 said:
This is the wall behind the sink, three boxes will go here. 5" from the carpet and 5" from the chair rail. 21"x21" boxes directly on to the drywall, mdf trim 1/2" thick.
Click to expand...

Thanks;

It appears that your sink and base cabinets are mounted to a ponywall, so I'd be inclined to employ a reasonably quality stud-finder which will identify objects within the wall cavity, taping the wall with your knuckle and differentiating the solid as opposed to the hollow, will allow you to identify framing members to attach too.

I understand the desire to minimize the effect of aesthetics that screws and anchors can raise, however there are available matching screw head plugs designed to minimize this.

Use of a stud finder can permit the avoidance of identified potential hazards.

I would use a 2" nails.
 
Last edited:
Just tested on a small piece of drywall that was in the attic. I used the 18 gauge nailer with the 1 1/4" nails, and nailed to the thickest part of the trim. It did not go completely through the drywall . I know it's not the way to attach it,to just the wall, but I'll also be using liquid nails and hope it holds up. And that the plumbers didn't shave any of the wall from the inside.
 
If by shadow box you mean a sq. of molding, 2" nails on an angle. Angled nails will hold in drywall, just like picture hangers.
 
Ls181 said:
Just tested on a small piece of drywall that was in the attic. I used the 18 gauge nailer with the 1 1/4" nails, and nailed to the thickest part of the trim. It did not go completely through the drywall . I know it's not the way to attach it,to just the wall, but I'll also be using liquid nails and hope it holds up. And that the plumbers didn't shave any of the wall from the inside.
Click to expand...

Sorry to here that.

Good luck.
 
Ls181 said:
This is the wall behind the sink, three boxes will go here. 5" from the carpet and 5" from the chair rail. 21"x21" boxes directly on to the drywall, mdf trim 1/2" thick.






Click to expand...


if you post a picture of the plumbing under the sink.
i can pretty much tell you what you are dealing with
 
The adhesive will do the job. the nails will only need to hold it till the stuff dries. If you nail at an angle as Neal suggested they won't penetrate as far.
 
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