DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Walls and Ceilings > Tackling My First Popcorn/stucco Ceilings Over Plaster.....




Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-02-2012, 10:40 AM  
Bster13
Junior Member
registry_dropdown_27314_72212
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 10
Likes Given: 1

Default Tackling My First Popcorn/stucco Ceilings Over Plaster.....

Hello Everyone,

I'm a new to this game (have painted mostly as well as put up drywall on walls in new construction as well as small repairs). I'm tackling my first set of popcorn/stucco over plaster ceilings in a one story ranch built in the 1950s. Here are the pics I took initially w/ measurements:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8970927@N04/

Underneath all that goodness is plaster ceilings with hairline cracks everywhere.

Options (I think) to address this after stripping down to the plaster:

1) Skim coat. (NOT RECOMMENDED. It'd be fast but the cracks in the underlying plaster will just come through the skim coat eventually and I'll have to go back and repeatedly fix it.)

2) Use wide mesh tape and then skim coat over. This will give a buffer between the cracked plaster and the new skim coat so the cracks won't come back.

3) Don't completely remove popcorn/stucco ceilings, but just knock them down a bit then screw drywall ( 1/2" or 5/8” thick) into ceiling joists, then tape and mud.

I haven't priced out the drywall yet or jacks but I may just make my own deadmans, but here are my questions:

- Which repair will last the longest?

- What type of repair will take the longest to complete? (hanging drywall vs. scraping/sanding popcorn/stucco)

- Are there any "gotchas" I am not thinking of?

Many thanks.


Bster13 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2012, 07:16 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
registry_dropdown_20526_72233
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upper Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Posts: 13,171
Liked 1304 Times on 1147 Posts
Likes Given: 2201

Default

Clean out the cracks and taping will work but if the ceiling has been paint no 3 might be better, but you have to watch how much weight you are adding, best check size and length of ceiling joists. If undersized like meny are you may want to pull down and start over.


nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 08:55 PM  
Underdog
Member
registry_dropdown_27338_72264
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 45
Liked 5 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

I have successfully defeated spider cracks on plaster by using liner paper. Since it will be painted over, I suggest using a vinyl over vinyl additive to the water as liner papers are mostly pre-pasted. This will give a secure bond. Let it cure a few days. If you feel insecure, primer with an oil base paint. This will reveal any remaining flaws. I've done this on houses for repeat customers over a decade ago and the walls and ceilings are still pristine. The liner paper just becomes the new surface. It definitely gets rid of the hairline cracks.
Underdog is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:16 PM  
Bster13
Junior Member
registry_dropdown_27314_72269
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 10
Likes Given: 1

Default

I'm feeling more comfy with leaving stripping the popcorn from directly below the plaster, then nailing furring strips to the ceilings joist, then hanging 1/2in drywall to the furring strips, tape & mud, sand, primer & paint. Any objections to that plan of attack or things I should watching out for?
Bster13 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:19 PM  
Bster13
Junior Member
registry_dropdown_27314_72270
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 10
Likes Given: 1

Default

Actually another question I have is about about recessed lighting.

I purchased 5 of these:

"Halo 4 in. LED New Construction Recessed Lighting Housing"

And 5 of these:

"EcoSmart 4 in. 9.5-Watt (65W) LED Downlight"

The plan is to cut out a wide berth in the plaster, in the general area where I am putting the recessed cans. Mount the cans flush with the bottom of the joists, then put up the drywall (mounting to furring strips attached to the plaster under the joists).

My worry about this scenario is with the extra depth of the plaster/furring/drywall that the somewhat adjustable can (mounted flush with the bottom of the ceiling joist) won't be able to extend down enough to mount the LED bulb w/ integrated lip over the drywall, low enough.
Bster13 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:20 PM  
Underdog
Member
registry_dropdown_27338_72271
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 45
Liked 5 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bster13 View Post
I'm feeling more comfy with leaving stripping the popcorn from directly below the plaster, then nailing furring strips to the ceilings joist, then hanging 1/2in drywall to the furring strips, tape & mud, sand, primer & paint. Any objections to that plan of attack or things I should watching out for?
It would be brand new, brand new is good.
Underdog is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:33 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
registry_dropdown_20526_72272
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upper Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Posts: 13,171
Liked 1304 Times on 1147 Posts
Likes Given: 2201

Default

My only question is the strength of the structure. Can each ceiling joists handle another 85 pounds without sagging.
nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:42 PM  
Bster13
Junior Member
registry_dropdown_27314_72274
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 10
Likes Given: 1

Default

That is a question of mine as well... they are 2 x 10s, 16 on center I believe. A buddy says it's not like the ceilings joists are carrying the weight of people walking on them, they'll be fine. Another friend says "use thin drywall, you don't want the weight of the plaster plus the popcorn/stucco and then the drywall to weigh things down too much" Hrmmm....
Bster13 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 10:33 PM  
Underdog
Member
registry_dropdown_27338_72278
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 45
Liked 5 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Maybe brand new is not so good, paperhanger out since I'm not a structure guy.
Underdog is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2012, 10:34 PM  
nealtw
Contractor
registry_dropdown_20526_72393
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upper Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Posts: 13,171
Liked 1304 Times on 1147 Posts
Likes Given: 2201

Default

2x10s sound substancial but you would want to check the span tables for the weight they can carry depending on how long they are.
1/2" drywall is about 55lbs per sheet. The plaster is anybodies guess. you would have to remove a square ft and weight it.


nealtw is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Popcorn ceilings with Radiant heating, What can I use to cover the popcorn? rentwest Insulation and Radiant Barriers 1 11-28-2011 11:14 AM
Getting Rid of Popcorn Ceilings SavvyCat Walls and Ceilings 7 05-23-2011 06:23 PM
Newcomer tackling Popcorn ceilings... DIYerTX Walls and Ceilings 1 05-23-2011 06:20 PM
An elegant solution to get rid of popcorn ceilings 123done Flooring 4 04-30-2007 09:16 AM
Removing Popcorn Ceilings secondseason Flooring 4 09-08-2006 12:19 PM

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS