Yes draining tank improves longevity efficiency. Turn off heat,turn off water supply to tank, allow to cool, attach hose to drain, open drain valve, open a hot water faucet somewhere. Preferably one close to tank low like in bath. Or loosen outlet on tank. When drained, turn on water supply for five or ten minutes to stir up sediment. Turn off water supply allow tank to drain. Some folks back flush thru drain hole a few minutes to stir up sediment, then drain again. A few seconds back flush may clear sediment from drain valve, you still may need to put hose cap on valve as it may not seal back, especially if you have not been draining regularly.
If electric, some actually remove lower heating element and use shop vac to remove sediment.
Close drain, retighten outlet, and open hot water outlets, remove stem from that low faucet. Open inlet valve to tank, watch low faucet to see that no sediment clogs valve. Turn off water to tank. Install stem, leave faucets open, start filling tank. Turn off faucets when they stop sputtering air, working from low to high. Turn on heat. Expect some sputtering when turning on hot water faucets, don't get splashed. Heating water releases some air.
Replacing anode keeps tank from rusting. Some hex head anodes you can remove with crescent, open end or box wrench, others require socket. Plumbing supply house, maybe big box have inexpensive sockets, wrenches for other type anodes, or go ahead by big socket that fits your ratchet. When taking out anode, especially if old, be careful not to break it and let it fall into tank. Won't really hurt anything it will continue doing job untill gone, but chunk could clog pipe or faucet. If you have low overhead there are jointed anodes made of short sections. Sort of like link sausage.
Measure twice, cut once.
Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.
If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.