I put a 2x8 across the studs like you mentioned just for some temp support until i think of which way to persue the job. Thanks for the help. Nealtw can you explain that a little more. Im not quite getting the grasp of it?
heres a pic of the wall when there was no drywall on it. You can see how the ceiling/2nd floor joists end right on that wall.They done make it to the outside wall of the house here due to the staircase. Whoever made this wall back in the day did a really crappy job. I know there should have been a header over the microwave opening too. putting that opening there was not to smart as important as this wall is.
Also before this contractor screwed up my house we use to have a arched wall in front of the bad wall. He told us the arch wall was not a load bearing wall before he removed it but i think it may have been a support wall . In the pic below it shows the arch wall. To get a idea of where it is corresponding to the bad wall in question . the kitchen cabinets on the right are on the new wall i just built and more to the right out of the pic is the bad wall in question.
Reason i think it may have been a supporting wall also is that 1 its perpendicular to the joists,2 there is cross bracing on the ceiling over where it was and 3, when walking upstairs there is a hallway and wall running to the front of the house(bedrooms on the other side of the wall however that wall looks to be directly over where the arch wall was and then above the wall upstairs is the attic which has center studs to the roof running almost right over that wall too.
What do you guys think? He said the arch wall had no pressure on it but i cant really take his word for it considering he couldnt do anything right.