some roof questions

Are you living in the house now? I feel really bad that we didn't talk more about temp repairs while we were looking at other things but with that much snow, it may not of helped.
Are you still in the house and is the roof leaking?

Yes we're living here , both the contractor and engineer said we're ok , but I do worry about the snow ahead. I did move the kids into our room though and demoed out the ceilings. Most of the rafters are rotten. The storm was just the final blow.

So the garage workshop I believe is a 3/12 pitch with 2x6 on 24" center. They are 24' long. I know scary. I will add pictures after dinner . I was told to sister the wood , maybe on both sides and adding a beam in the middle. The beam requirement is obviously on the engineer but if I have to change it out later so be it , it's a very dangerous roof and needs to be adressed now.

They are all bowed pretty bad if not broke , so I'm looking for expertise on how to jack this up. I'm guessing I'd use 2x6x12 with the beam supporting the middle of the 24'span. I have 2 weeks in a row with 4 day weekends , I'm sure I could fix it with all that time.

The garage work shop has a concrete floor? It is not ment to carry a lot of weight but that a chance you have to take.
I will wait for the photos.

Having problems posting pics from my phone. I'm having the wife try to upload them today.

Yes the floor is concrete and the walls are mostly cinder blocks with a wood wall on top of that. I'll get pics squared away today.

I'd say broken or not they all bow 4-6". Do I jack one at a time up? I'll have to take a few better pics , but the ends that sit on walls have notches to sit on the walls , so it's not like I can slide them in straight.

My first thought was to build two walls that could be lifted with bottle jacks but that has a sliping problem.
First chore is to check for roofing nails coming thru the sheeting and will be in the way for sistering, you want to cut them with a small angle grinder and water squit bottle.
We want to do the new rafters in pairs sowhen you have your head between 2 rafters clean up the nails on your side of both rafters and then move over 2 ( explain later)
If you don't feel safe working under there, use 2x4s to tempbrace between the rafter and the floor.
I'm thinking 2x8s 14ft long (Crown up)
You will need a quick square for fast angle finding.
Cut a sample out of a chunk of 2x8 about 2 ft.
We want a tail to sit on the lower wall. Cut on end of the 2x8 at 3/12 plumb cut ( Match your roof angle)
3 inches away from your cut draw another plumb line
On the back wall measure from the top of the wall to the under side of the sheeting (depending on how they cut the birdsmouth this might be anywhere from 3" to 4 1/2"
On the 2x8 put that measuement from the top down and draw a square line out to your plumb cut.
The area below that line is to be cut away leaving you with a tab to sit on the wall.
Engineers don't like big notches like that cut out of a timber so we can do an extra cut, so you can add to the wall later
The other side of the quick square gives you a seat cut without changing the setting.
Place that on the bottom edge of the 2x8 and slide it down untill it gives you a line about 2" long and draw that line and cut that little tri angle off.
Now that is what we would like to have sitting on the wall but it won't slide in there and lift up into place so on the top corner you will have to cut an angle that will allow you to slip it in there.
You want to remove as little as possible and a little trial and error until you have it.
Trying this to fit close to the side wall should prove that all your angles are right and will be good to go.
Use this as a sample to cut the ends of all your 2x8s
Set them all in place on the back wall, remember the will be facing each other in each bay.Other end on the floor.
Later

Just went and looked at the pics. Hmm chipboard and drywall, temp beam.
You do have some work to do. If you follow ny plan the beam will have to go, which can be replaced with a stud directly under each rafter.
Back to my plan
Lift up the other end of one of them just by hand has high as you can and support it with a 2x6 a few inches to long at about 12 ft from the back wall.
You want to have it at an angle so when you tap the bottom in it will lift the rafter, but not yet.
Lift each of the new rafters and place a 2x6 under each. 2x6 want to be the same length and placed in the same place on each rafter.
If we lift it like this the rafters will roll over so to hold them up right each pair will want 2x6 blocks on edge between them measure at the lower wall the distance between each pair and hopefully
the guy that sheeted the roof kept the layout straight, if not you may have to deal with that as you lift.
You want blocking near the bottom and close to where the support 2x6s are.
Thing slipping is always a concern so I would use hanger straps to attach the bottom end of the rafter to the wall and to attach the support 2x6s to the rafter
Now you should be able to lift them into place by tapping the bottom of the support 2x6 in. I would be using a 10 pound hammer for tapping each just a little at a time,working back and forth.
You may find that they have slipped up the roof a little when you have them in place, you may be able to hammer them back down with a big hammer.

I have said back wall thru out that may also mean front wall.
You will want to watch carefully that everything is staying straight as you lift extra blocking and bracing may be required.
I didn't suggest lift it straight up because iI was thinking you could lift the rafters off the back wall.
You may want to lay lumber on the floor under the support 2x6s to spread the load over a greater area.
I have not done this before, I have repaired 2 with a simular system

I was thinking too about your house, getting thru the next snow load and the winter.
If you have gutted it I presume that is insulation too, snow will melt off quickly but also cause ice damming.
What's the plan?

I'm going to have to read through your post a couple times and figure out what your saying although I get the jist . That beam you see was actually there for the garage door , it probably saved the entire roof from collapse. I added 2 4x4 braces under to joists that you can't see from the pics. Pics are hard , I may try to make a short video.

As for the 2nd story. I dint demo all the insulation , just enough to see alot of bad things.water is coming in this morning , first real rain. I'm thinking I can carnack the leaks. The whole roof is tarped except the flat , which is the leak.

The PPE told me I'm lucky I shoveled , and to do so again if we get over a foot , at least 3 roof collapses on my street alone . My plan is to demo the interior 2nd floor as much as I can until I rebuild , but that will be after winter.

I'll get some better pics and a video if I can.

Thanks for you help and have a merry Christmas! !

I wrote the for the worst case. Of coarse there is always 20 ways to do anything.

This is always a dangerous thing to deal with, please be careful.

buffalo said:

As for the 2nd story. I dint demo all the insulation , just enough to see alot of bad things.water is coming in this morning , first real rain. I'm thinking I can carnack the leaks. The whole roof is tarped except the flat , which is the leak.

If the roof is leaking, you have some serious shingle issues, and the tar paper underneath probably has long horizontal cracks as well.Probably have to replace the entire roof assembly, and save as much plywood as you can.
The PPE told me I'm lucky I shoveled , and to do so again if we get over a foot , at least 3 roof collapses on my street alone . My plan is to demo the interior 2nd floor as much as I can until I rebuild , but that will be after winter.
Also be careful of what the PE told you, you do not want to be on a roof that will collapse if it gets more snow. And if you do shovel the roof, do each side evenly on the way down the roof, because if you do one side then the next,,, it will be disastrous. just in case you were not aware. Good luck with this,

I'll get some better pics and a video if I can.

Thanks for you help and have a merry Christmas! !

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Merry Christmas to you as well!!

inspectorD said:

This is always a dangerous thing to deal with, please be careful. Merry Christmas to you as well!!

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He just wants o get the roof thru the winter, as he will be removing the second floor and replacing it as well as a whole new roof structure.

I was thinking extra 2x4 bracing down to the bearing wall. As is another big snow storm could take out the whole house.

Not trying to be disrespectful by posting on Christmas , but I'm taking advantage of real Internet at the inlaws.

I understand your advise I believe after reading it , Neal. Basically I make the notches in the rafters to match what is there , to allow the rafters to sit on the wall. My notch will be deeper if i use a larger peice of wood. I'm sure you recommend sistering with 2x8 because thier stronger. At that point , would 2x10 be even better to sister with?

I'm assuming you want me to sister rafters in the same bay so I can use blocking between them to keep them from tipping? I'm linking a video I took. These rafters are tied into the rafters on the main garage. The main garage rafters and these rafters are also tied into joists every 48" from the main garage. They are lagged together with 2 - 3/8 bolts each . This would only allow me to sister on the left side of every rafter.

I'm unsure why you recommend 14' boards? The existing 2x6 rafters are 24' long. Using your method I'm calling the back wall , the wall that boarders main garage. I'd assume I would use the same process off the front wall? I'm thinking if I used 2 -12' boards and did your process off each wall they would meet in the middle , where the beam would be installed?

I'm also assuming I would know when I have jacked an entire rafter length up high enough by placing a straight edge along where the 2 - 2x12 meet?

Just a few observations. My floor is far from level. A crack goes through it and it seems it pitches down inches towards the front wall(garage door) , from the crack. I can't rely on finished floor measurements. The outer most rafters seem unaffected since thier so well supported, maybe I should use a string line between the 2 to determine height instead of a straight edge? The soffit on the outside of the front wall is over 3'(not that that matters , just noting how that 24' rafter sits)

More pictures adds more questions. 3/12 only applies to the shed roof at the back?
24 ft includes over hang?
I am seeing 3 roof sections front and back of garage and shed.
Did the engineer suggest a beam for each? Really expensive!! Big beams!! Adding footings to support them.
New plan for garage,( No beam) Run this by the engineer.
Ignore the over hang for now.r
Cut new rafters one peice to fit to the peak and to wall, push the up to the peak and lift the lower end, once lifted bolt a ledger to the wall under the ends to support them. Add collar ties about a third from the top.
I wouldn't worrry about an uneven floor, you would just try to keep them close while you take them up.
If the floor is questionable, lay down peices of 2x12 Or?? to spread the load first.
I know you want to get this done, but it shouldn't be done to fast , I would just build temp walls under each section for now while a plan is developed.

2 garages , I guess we will call it a garage , and a shed. The garage itself has no issues. I'm worried the shed could pull it down. I have strip most off the bottom of the rafters. That is a foam insulation board(not drywall) and particle board. There was no cercern with the garage , I just filmed it for the big picture I suppose.only the floor in the shed area is cracked , and was before the storm. In all honesty , I'd just abandon the shed before I spend money on it. But It would would cost 300$ to sister the rafters plus temp bracing , I'm ok with that for now.then have the PPE calculate a beam. That why I figured if I'm going to put the labor into it , go with 2x10 ?

The 24' rafter span includes the overhang. That's why I was thinking two 12' pieces of lumber (to make 24') and a beam in the middle where they meet.( or 2 different length lumbers subtracting the overhang to place the beam in the middle of the actual structure)I looked into it , and the shed is a 2/12 pitch not 3/12 as I initially said. It is mated to the garage wich is (just measured) 6.5/12.

OK that makes more sense.
So if you spend all the money doing this you still have a crappey roof that is to low slope for shingles and hundred year storms happening every other year, I don't like it. I don't think it is money and time well spent.
I would build the temp walls maybe two in the shed and spend time looking after the house.
The shed roof should be replaced with trusses that sit on the wall and extend the roof to the peak of the garage, with out adding weight to the garage roof.
I can't find a picture of it.

I'm willing to spend the money on the crappy roof , lol. If I can sister and beam it for a few hundred , it beats redoing a new roof structure. Trusses are not going to happen. But your right , onto the house. I downloaded 2 other videos the other day.

House exterior roof

Interior 2nd floor