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Old 01-23-2014, 07:34 PM  
DIY67
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Default Almost over my head flooring project

I am hoping someone can advise me on the correct path to take.
I just had someone demo a quarry tile floor set in thinset, set on nailed down paneling installed flatside down? that was placed over raised 12x12 tar based like tiles? This was sitting on yellow pine flooring over a pine subfloor that sits on real 2" x 8" joists.

This is a 1928 tudor, in the kitchen area and I am not removing the kitchen at this time..
There are a few plywood patches, and between the nails and a wall that was removed at one time( missing flooring there) I cant save the pine floor.
Also there is a small 10x10 addition that was done years ago and where it attaches to the main house there is a inflection point with the rest of the kitchen sloping down to the other end of the kitchen.

Do I go through the pain of ripping it out or do I screw it down really well, patch the bad areas and go over the floor. How bad would it be if I go over the floor with either new natural hickory hardwood or a laminate( which I'm not sure will be a nice as the hickory hardwood). Tile is out of the picture for both my wife and I , and we have a pretty heavy traffic house hold with a dog and two cats and three girls and a sliding glass door that gets alot of use in the kitchen.

Also time right now is a scarce commodity for me these days. Isn't it always.

Thanks for any ideas or directions that you could post.



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Old 01-24-2014, 10:02 AM  
bud16415
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I have put down several laminate floors the first going back to when it had to be glued and it didn’t lock together. The last one I did was in our kitchen in our circa 1900 house and it had all the stuff you mentioned yours does and then some including the transition into an entry that had a height change and a slope also.

Laminate is pretty forgiving and very easy to lay down and super durable. I also didn’t rip everything up I got down to the 12x12 tiles and some of them were even missing. I used a floor leveling compound you mix with water and leveled as best I could. Heater ducts openings and a trip to the basement it wasn’t hard to figure out where the joists were and I tightened it all up with long screws as needed and in a couple of bouncy spots sisters a to the joists and a little shimming from below. Then I laid the laminate and the results look great. You should look at doorways and doors and entry into other rooms and plan on what the height change will be. If you are removing tile and going to laminate you should be close. Leave an expansion gap all around and cover with a base shoe. I have found some of the flooring is very reasonably priced but the matching trim is really expensive. I used for example regular wood quarter round and stained it and varnished it to match the floor.

Good luck and also welcome to the forum.



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Old 01-24-2014, 06:42 PM  
samfloor
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I would probably use engineered instead of laminate, since it is more realistic looking and more durable. Engineered can be sanded and refinished, laminate is basically a picture of wood, glued to particle board.

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Old 01-25-2014, 08:28 AM  
DIY67
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Thank you for the replies. I have taken a better look at the floors and my wife and I are thinking we could patch the few areas then need patching and one area ( the small addition to the house has the flooring going perpendicular and there is a whole there about 7-8 " x the width of the addition. We were thinking of maybe repairing the hole (from an old wall), and maybe installing a few pieces of oak stained dark to act as a border and break point. Thinking maybe it will add some character to the floor. The existing floor is either heartwood pine or yellow pine, Im not exactly sure. I have to get a refinshing company in here to see if they can even sand the floor. there are alot of nails sticking out from when they nailed down the paneling? to use as base for the tile.

I have installed laminate in my daughters room, and although it looks nice, it just doesnt have the same lool and feel as wood. I think we are going away from laminate for this job now, and looking at solid wood or maybe an engineeered wood now as SF has suggested. I am going to take some pics and post . I think that would be helpfu. Thanks again B and SF

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Old 01-25-2014, 11:33 AM  
bryce
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Definitely take out he old pine flooring. I would say always take out old flooring never cover things up! Pine can rot easily, you can end up with a disaster of mold under your nice new flooring.



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