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Old 04-17-2014, 11:41 AM  
nealtw
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Bud, If you have a single height garage you could likely get away with a mud wall were you build your temp wall on 2x12 bottom plate and use over height studs to raise it, just install hurricane hangers on the rafters and brace everything.


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Old 04-17-2014, 11:57 AM  
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I got curious about how much force the chain cutter in the hardware store needed to cut chains and it's easy to figure the same thing with this project.

With a 3' long handle and a person pushing down on the end with 100 lbs force it's 300 ft-lbs of energy.
If 18,000 lbs x X feet has to equal 300 then X = 0.017' or 0.2".

Pulling down the handle using stiff springs from HD will tell you how much force you are using by how much the spring is stretched. Storm door snubber springs take about 40 lbs per inch and you can parallel springs to get more force.

When do we start?


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Old 04-17-2014, 12:29 PM  
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Neal: Yep single story and that’s more or less what I’m doing. This garage was owner built and built from whatever he could find or “acquire”. The starting point was a small single bay he added a wing / lean-to off each side and raised the roof. So much work for saving so little. Most of the lumber is Amish rough cut hemlock that’s as hard as nails and for collar ties he used rail road crossing gates. I don’t know how he came by them and I hope the RR never wants them back. I better paint them as they are white and black now with RR Crossing lettered across. I had a boat load of snow on it this winter and it did ok so I’m assuming its mostly ok and keeping it just adding a brace here and there and a lot of screws because I’m no longer into driving 8” spikes like he did.

Wuzzy: You might be on to something and your math seems correct. I just designed a test machine at work to test the interference fit on locomotive wheels. It twists the axle with a million foot pounds against an immovable wheel. If I had a 1,000,000 foot long handle all it would take is one pound of force.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:33 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
It twists the axle with a million foot pounds against an immovable wheel.
I would like to be somewhere else when you run that test!
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:39 PM  
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bud; What is the standard interference fit, a friend of mine just noticed no key way and was wondering about that just the other day.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:22 PM  
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Hi Neal sorry haven't been checking in 3 day weekend nice weather and a garage to wire. The fit is .010" on a 10 inch axle. When we press them on we make a graph of the tons and distance. Ever one has curve and limits it has to match. That graph is then logged in to that locomotive. They want to see a high limit but want to see it ramp up without a spike at the end. Our press is 400 ton. We also press the bull gear on that drive it. Each axle is about 1000 HP, and each axle has a traction motor.

Wuz. I left a very long control wire to the test rig.


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Old 04-18-2014, 06:33 PM  
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I had a '75 Triumph Spitfire with pins through the rear axle that I couldn't remove. Turns out to get that interference fit you put the pins in liquid nitrogen or some such thing before you press them in.

http://www.tribology-abc.com/calculators/e3_8.htm
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:32 AM  
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Yes that's a shrink fit. We do that all the time heat the ring freeze the shaft slip them together and let them cool. The reason in the USA locomotive wheels have to be pressed is to get a record. Some countries allow shrink fits , some even allow steel tires.


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