Pex Controll Center/Manifold Mounting Ideas

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aNYCdb

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Folks were very helpful in a prior threat on running new pex for my cabin project. I'm up to the point where I'm getting ready to hood everything up and I'm wondering what's the best way to mount it.

I'm using 2 copper manifolds (one hot one cold), with 1/2" ball valves on each output. The issue I'm having is what's the best way to mount it given the materials and the fact that its going to be in the basement?

I was thinking of mounting everything to a piece of scrap cemement board using plastic wire clamps so that they are secure, but the clamps won't risk marring the pex. Alternatively would CDX be better?

How have other folks done this?
 
Post 24 on this thread shows mine. http://www.houserepairtalk.com/showthread.php?t=17318&page=3
I mounted mine to a block of 2x4 attached to a 2x6. The two levels made room for the handles to turn and so that the hot, cold pair went off together. I then mounted that step block to a piece of plywood that was laying around. I mounted mine at 45 degrees just because all the runs of half inch went off in the same direction. HC come in the bottom .75 and all the .5 are home runs and the two .75 at the top feed the 2nd floor bath. The unused ones are all now outside water spigots. I tee the hot and colds together just past the manifold and then I can from the basement change the hose outside to hot if I need hot water or can even mix the temp. if you do that when mixing you need to remember when done to close at least one of the valves. If you don’t the back feed will slowly warm up your cold water a little. If you want to leave a mixed setting off the manifold then use check valves after the valve.

Oh I used plastic conduit clamps to hold the copper.
 
bud16415 said:
Post 24 on this thread shows mine. http://www.houserepairtalk.com/showthread.php?t=17318&page=3
I mounted mine to a block of 2x4 attached to a 2x6. The two levels made room for the handles to turn and so that the hot, cold pair went off together. I then mounted that step block to a piece of plywood that was laying around. I mounted mine at 45 degrees just because all the runs of half inch went off in the same direction. HC come in the bottom .75 and all the .5 are home runs and the two .75 at the top feed the 2nd floor bath. The unused ones are all now outside water spigots. I tee the hot and colds together just past the manifold and then I can from the basement change the hose outside to hot if I need hot water or can even mix the temp. if you do that when mixing you need to remember when done to close at least one of the valves. If you don’t the back feed will slowly warm up your cold water a little. If you want to leave a mixed setting off the manifold then use check valves after the valve.

Oh I used plastic conduit clamps to hold the copper.
Click to expand...

It was a little hard for my old eyes to see clearly, so just to confirm. The whole setup is connected using just the four (4) conduit clamps around the copper (2 per)?

Also just to be clear you didn't run the cold water source for the boiler/waterheater though the manifold?
 
aNYCdb said:
It was a little hard for my old eyes to see clearly, so just to confirm. The whole setup is connected using just the four (4) conduit clamps around the copper (2 per)?

Also just to be clear you didn't run the cold water source for the boiler/waterheater though the manifold?
Click to expand...

Yep 4 clamps, 8 screws.

Where the water comes in the house is closer to the water heater and on the way to the distribution point / manifold. I put a .75 ball valve where the water meter out flow is and ran pex to the WH and added a tee. They have shark bite water heater tank connectors with heat shielding braid over the PEX. The shark bite will make tank replacement easy. The cold continued on with the hot at that point and joins the manifold at the lower right hand side.

Doing it this way keeps the two valves going to the same place side by side.

There was no reason to run the cold into the manifold and then back to the WH and then back to the manifold again.

The longest run is to the upstairs bath and I used the .75 on the exit end of the manifold, thinking I would get better volume and pressure with the larger line. Plus tub, sink and toilet all branch off up in that bathroom. Pressure is great but I think water would have got hot quicker if I had done it with .5. some people tell me I did it the best way some say .5 would have been large enough. Not changing it now.

I love PEX it took me 12 hours to do the whole house and I never used it before. Not one leak.:)
 
Last edited:
bud16415 said:
Yep 4 clamps, 8 screws.

Where the water comes in the house is closer to the water heater and on the way to the distribution point / manifold. I put a .75 ball valve where the water meter out flow isand ran pex to the WH and added a tee. They have shark bite water heater tank connectors with heat shielding braid over the PEX. The shark bite will make tank replacement easy. The cold continued on with the hot at that point and joins the manifold at the lower right hand side.

Doing it this way keeps the two valves going to the same place side by side.

There was no reason to run the cold into the manifold and then back to the WH and then back to the manifold again.

The longest run is to the upstairs bath and I used the .75 on the exit end of the manifold, thinking I would get better volume and pressure with the larger line. Plus tub, sink and toilet all branch off up in that bathroom. Pressure is great but I think water would have got hot quicker if I had done it with .5. some people tell me I did it the best way some say .5 would have been large enough. Not changing it now.

I love PEX it took me 12 hours to do the whole house and I never used it before. Not one leak.:)
Click to expand...

Excellent. I love PEX as well, I did most of the re-plumbing work with PEX back in the spring (based off much of your advice back then), now I'm just trying to build out more of a control center with the shutoffs.
 
Last edited:
aNYCdb said:
Excellent. I love PEX as well, I did most of the re-plumbing work with back in the spring (based off much of your advice back then), now I'm just trying to build out more of a control center with the shutoffs.
Click to expand...

Mine is kind of back to back with the electric panel and everything is labeled at both places. It is right at the bottom of the stairs. I tell everyone if something goes wrong don’t go looking for shut off valves here and there go straight to the manifold and shut off the two valves for that area.

Glad we can help.
 
The end result... for now.

19983745_10154970726158406_8345240407783780122_o.jpg
 
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