Duct work
- Thread starter Just
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
That sounds correct but you also have to think about the return air. The room is a closed box and blowing air into it needs a way to get out. Maybe under the door.
Having the larger line going to the room is fine just dampen it on one end or the other to suit what your needs are.
Having the larger line going to the room is fine just dampen it on one end or the other to suit what your needs are.
You can add a damper at the wye, as well as an adjustable register to control demand.
5 air changes per hour is a standard, however, you can get off into the weeds when you take into account what type of glazing, the amount as a % of the areas sq. ftg., as well as the N, S, E & W orientation. All of which can affect demand.
5 air changes per hour is a standard, however, you can get off into the weeds when you take into account what type of glazing, the amount as a % of the areas sq. ftg., as well as the N, S, E & W orientation. All of which can affect demand.
Not necessarily, however your comfort heating appliance should be a closed system and independent of the hot water heating appliance.
My furnace sits in the basement next to my water heater and the heating system is a closed loop to the upper floors. The basement has a door and would get quite cool in the winter months.
I cut a hole in the main trunk leaving the furnace and installed an adjustable grate. I keep it cracked just a little and it helps warm the basement.
I think what you are asking is similar you think you might want a little heat in your utility room. I would wait and see as you will get some heat escaping off the furnace and ducts. If it is not to your liking add one like I did. Worse thing that could happen is you would leave it closed.
