Header strength over garage door?

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my house originally had two 8' garage doors with a 1' center post, but i would like to put in a single 17' door instead. about 20 years ago the garage was enclosed and they took out the center post and put 2x4 framing in with a sliding door on each side and regular plywood siding in the middle where the post was. no modifications were made to the header or original framing.

it has has two 2x12's side by side across the full 17 1/2' span that are sitting on 2 vertical 2x4's on each side. it's a single story gable roof and the rafters run front to back, built in '59.

would this hold up? i REALLY hate double garage doors, and i know 16' doors are common, so i wouldn't think another foot would hurt. i can't see any sagging in the roof or 2x12's and i don't think the sliding doors/siding are holding much weight if any at all. just thought i'd ask the pros before i go tearing stuff up. i'll get a pic later on tonight if i can find my camera.
 
Your best bet...

Go talk to a local building supplier. Not Lowe's or the Depot but a lumber yard where contractors go in your area. Find a salesman and ask about laminated beams. They can arrange to come to your home, do measurements, investigate what's above the beam and the manufacturing company can engineer what you need.
OR
If what you have is adequate, they will be able to tell you on-site.

From my desk, the only thing I can guarantee is that 2 2x12s nailed together 50 years ago will certainly bow and sag if you remove a center support of any type.
 
Is the garage door on the gable end?...or am I confused? Whatever you do, have the local building inspector sign off on it. They are also a big help on knowing which direction to take. Problem is everyone is scared of em, this I can't figure out....unless you are tryin to get something by.;)
 
measuring from the floor to the bottom of the 2x12's, the right side is 86", the left side is 85 3/4" and the middle is 85 1/2". i'm not sure how straight these things normally are, and how long if it all it would take it to sag over time. i just don't want the house to come down on me.

other than the center post, is a garage with an 16' door normally built different? would putting another row of 2x10's or whatever above the door help any? my truck will barely squeeze in a 8' door, so i'm really trying to avoid that.

garage1bz4.jpg


garage2mc3.jpg
 
Is the garage door on the gable end?...or am I confused? Whatever you do, have the local building inspector sign off on it. They are also a big help on knowing which direction to take. Problem is everyone is scared of em, this I can't figure out....unless you are tryin to get something by.;)

this would be the lowest part of the roof, and it goes up from there. i guess it would be a cross gable, right? the ugly carport and rotting covered porch are soon to go before anyone asks. :eek:

carportsh3.jpg
 
Hey Justin:
Thanks for the pictures, they help a lot.
You have a pretty tall space there above the door to the ceiling. I would recommend sandwiching both inside and out with 2 layers of OSB glued and nailed with no two splices occouring on the same stud. That would give you a giant truss beam. Of course, you may want to check that with the local engineer or inspector first.
Glenn
 
Either an engineer or a competent contractor can help you with this. Unfortunatly this is the bearing ends of the rafter and roof assembly.
The gable end would be the wall part of the roof. There is not as much weight there and you have different options.
Get the local building inspector out there to give it a look. They are town employees and basically are there to help you out.
Never meet one who did not help in some way.
Good luck.

Just for starters, you will probably be using an 18 inch or bigger lvl. And some plywood on that exterior wall would be better than that homosote type press-cardboard which is there now.
 
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