DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Insulation and Radiant Barriers > Insulated attic, but still feeling cold @ wall and ceiling




Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-16-2009, 12:09 PM  
JohnPinNJ
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Default Insulated attic, but still feeling cold @ wall and ceiling

Hello,
First time poster here. My house is a small colonial built in 1985.

I added R-30 batts to my attic. Due to low pitched roof and angle of roof rafters, I could not get the insulation all the way out to the top plate of the outside wall below the attic. I was able to slide in rafter vents and staple them at top end. I then pushed the tall batts as far out as I could without them being compressed to much.

In addition, I had my roof redone this summer and my house resided with foam backed siding. The house had an odd front second floor upper wall at an angle which was covered in roof shingle. I had that straighten, framed to be vertical and a soffit added to match the rest of the house. It was then sided instead of roof shingles.

The new framing created a void which I had insulation blown into from the outside, I saw the insulation come up to the top plate.

Now that its cold I'm feeling cold spot at where wall and ceiling met on outside front wall. Very frustrating since effort to do attic and expense to side and reframe. As I gradually side my hand on ceilng out toward center of room, I do not feel any cold.

I guess I could blow in some addtional insulation in the gap I could not reach by hand, but I cannot even get in there to put in blocking to keep insulation for filling soffit.

Thanks for suggestions on a solution.



__________________
JohnPinNJ is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-22-2009, 09:06 PM  
BobAristide
Faux stone panels
 
BobAristide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 52
Default

Have you thought about cutting holes in the drywall ( from inside the room ) and blow some expanding insulation directly there? You could also call your electrical company. they usually come out for free to test the cold area with infrared devices and give you advice. I had FPL come out and gave me a rebate I handed over an insulation company and paid nothing out of my pocket.



__________________
BobAristide is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-07-2010, 04:23 PM  
AtticCare
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pflugerville
Posts: 19
Default

That is why you should blow in your attic insulation!

__________________
AtticCare is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-07-2010, 06:03 AM  
Perry525
Senior Member
 
Perry525's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lake Wales, Fl.
Posts: 112
Liked 11 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Buy an infrared temperature gun from Amazon, about $20.
Scan walls to see where insulation is missing.
Drill holes in walls, blow in extra insulation, check with infrared to see if problem solved.

__________________
Perry525 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-07-2010, 11:01 AM  
AtticCare
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pflugerville
Posts: 19
Default I don't know about that

Insulated wall makes up less than 10% of the envelope in the avg. home. Voids in wall batting might make up 30% of that 10% at the most, making the total additional insulation you would be gaining would be maximum 3%. I don't think a < 3% change in envelope insulation is going to do much for the whole home energy package. You want to drill holes and fill random spots covering @20% of your exterior wall for less than 3% gain overall? There are usually much better places to put your time and money especially if you are looking for a return on your investment. All of the insulation combined in your house does not even cover 1/3 of the total btu that you pay in energy whether gas or electric, attic insulation is one of the best ways to see a ROI, but it is still one small part of the energy consumption "package" of a house.

__________________
AtticCare is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-07-2010, 01:50 PM  
Perry525
Senior Member
 
Perry525's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lake Wales, Fl.
Posts: 112
Liked 11 Times on 7 Posts

Default

I understand that you are basing your comments on an "average" home.
While there are millions of homes in 10 states that suffer from poor insulation, damp and mold......there is a gradual understanding, moving from Europe, that home built and insulated to "Passive House" standard, can be heated at very low cost, usually for 10 to 20% of the normal cost. This saving amounts to thousands of dollars over a lifetime.
It is well worth while doing.

__________________
Perry525 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-07-2010, 02:53 PM  
mudmixer
Contractor
 
mudmixer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 601
Liked 46 Times on 38 Posts
Likes Given: 39

Default

Perry -

That is because Europeam homes rely on heavier and more permanent construction materials and heat conservation rather than than the "gimmick" of R-Values used for advertising purposes with lightweight wood frame or steel syud construction.

__________________
mudmixer is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-07-2010, 09:48 PM  
GBR
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 348
Liked 23 Times on 22 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Shouldn't use fiberglass. That said, did you air seal the attic first? How to Seal Attic Air Leaks | The Family Handyman Use rigid foam over the exterior walls to prevent wind-washing of the insulation by the incoming air: Info-501: Installation of Cavity Insulation &mdash; Building Science Information

Welcome To Home Energy Magazine Online

Or at least the other part of the baffle: Windblock

Seal the wiring/plumbing hole in the crawl to that wall?

Gary

__________________
GBR is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2010, 04:37 AM  
Perry525
Senior Member
 
Perry525's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lake Wales, Fl.
Posts: 112
Liked 11 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post
Shouldn't use fiberglass. That said, did you air seal the attic first?
Seal the wiring/plumbing hole in the crawl to that wall?

Gary
Interesting article, well worth reading.

I must add that any space that is more than 16mm will start a convection current that will transfer heat across a space.

Try to avoid any holes over 16mm.
__________________
Perry525 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-08-2010, 06:59 PM  
GBR
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 348
Liked 23 Times on 22 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

You'll enjoy these from my library: http://www.buildingscienceconsulting...Measure_Up.pdf

Convective Loops, Air Leaks & Heat Loss Analysis for Buildings

Gary



__________________
GBR is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Shoudl the attic roof be insulated? Todd-Beaulieu Roofing and Siding 7 09-08-2009 02:05 PM
Another Attic to insulated before finishing.... kmhjet24 Green Energy and Sustenance Living 4 09-07-2009 09:53 AM
York attic thru the wall a/c justt HVAC 7 08-20-2009 07:25 AM
Freon copper in the wall and condensation pump in the attic Meldy HVAC 2 08-19-2009 07:57 PM
In case you were feeling sorry for yourself... knewshound General Home Improvement Discussion 8 06-14-2008 06:23 PM

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS