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Old 12-28-2009, 12:09 PM  
RBarton
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Default Need help finding water leak!

We purchased our house last summer and after about a 2 months in the house, we had a heavy rain with wind directed at the front of the house. We first noticed water coming inside the house above the garden doors in the basement. We called a siding contractor and he thought the problem was the flashing on bottom of the upper door as possible around the deck. If you look at the picture you will notice the water marks under the deck/around the door- both upper and lower, and around the windows. We had the windows and door reflashed. We had to replace the upper door frame as it was rotted.
We were hoping this would be the end of our leaking issues.... not so fortunate The upper exterior door was leaking inside in both corners when it rained hard. We had the contractor come back and remove the deck completley. WE Still had water coming in both corners and above the doors in the basement. We caulked the upper door so it can't be opened. We are not sure where to go next. If we squeeze the flashing above the garden doors, water comes from under. How would the water be getting under the tyvek and flashing? If you look closely at the pictures, it doesn't appear to be coming from higher above?? Would there not be water marks if the water were coming from the roof or soffit area?
If there is anyone who can help us with this issue, we would greatly appreciate it. The last photo is when the siding was being put back on the house and before we removed the upper deck..........
Thank you.



June 2009 027.jpg   June 2009 050.jpg   June 2009 053.jpg   June 2009 060.jpg  
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:53 PM  
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Its really hard to say. Obviously something isn't flashed correctly. Yes, its possible the leak is not around the door. It could be around the lighting fixtures, the attic vent or even the roof. You could also have faulty windows or doors.

Water can find its way through all sorts of paths. The leak will be above the area where you see the water under the flashing but could be way to the side and above too.



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Old 12-28-2009, 06:20 PM  
oldognewtrick
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The most likely causes of your leak are going to be .

1. The door frame should be sitting in a 3 sided "pan". This will force water outside that may get in through the threshold.

2. You should have a "Z" flashing above the door frame, then the "J" channel above the Z flashing.

3. The area where the deck bolts to the wall should have a "L" flashing to divert water away from the house. This flashing runs down the wall and out on the deck boards.

It looks from the staining you have more than one leak. Like Handyguy said, any area above the leak is suspect.

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Old 05-06-2010, 12:40 AM  
crcwilson
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I have an upper deck similar to these pictures but my leak comes in the first floor ceiling in a straight line that appears to be along the line where the brace goes into the house from the deck. We've caulked several times but there's no stopping the leak if the rain is coming towards that side of the house. How difficult is it to remove an upper deck like this?

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Old 10-05-2010, 03:21 AM  
marina21
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Water Alert Sensor Cable, a water detection cable sensor, the latest addition to Dorlen Products’ line of early warning leak detection devices. By using Water Alerts in combination with Sensor Cable the user can purchase a system specific to their needs, from a simple local audible alarm to a large monitoring system.

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:15 PM  
nealtw
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In Britsh Columbia we get rain alot and people that write the codes have come up with their new plan for windows and doors.
If you look at the old door instalation the paper that is your last stop for water stopped at the edge of the door opening and the brick mold only covered it for about 1 1/2" that is if it was papered before the door went in.
I will try to explain the deal,
we start with what we call blue skin witch is black sticky black sheet with plastic on one side, come in rolls a/ 9"wide
we start at the bottom with paper about 10" right under the door and stretching out about 10" each side. Now we come a little higher and put on the blueskin high enough to fold down like a floor pan so it should reach in 4" or 6". For a 2x4 wall we draw a line on the wall on each side 4'' higher than the floor or bottom of window. Start 6" from opening and stretch the blueskin across just below the line. On each side cut down to the floor and fold in. Cut tywo strips 2" x 9". This strip will cover the crack at the bottom between the studs and the end of the blueskin the extra length stretch down and away on the outside. Add another piece each side 4" x 9" at the bottom of the stud overlapping the small corner piece and around on plywood. Now with the paper wrap the sides in the same way and then the top same way. The same people that sell this blueskin also have plastic spacers in a horse shoe shape 1/4" or black ones. Place these under door or window and install. They no longer insulate that area, they instead call for cord and caulk. Cord being that foam strip that looks like it belongs on a pipe. It come in 1/4, 1/2 ,3/4 .
So any water leaking around the door will come back out and future damage will be no more than the door frame. after that any water in the house did not come from the door. As you probably have your siding back on this may be a little late.

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Old 12-08-2010, 04:38 PM  
TheDoorGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldog/newtrick View Post
The most likely causes of your leak are going to be .

1. The door frame should be sitting in a 3 sided "pan". This will force water outside that may get in through the threshold.
Agree completely with OldDog......

I have had very good leak stopping results by installing these pans in direct
weather situations.

I have had them made up by a sheet metal shop in the past.
Recently I have found some adjustable plastic ones on line that seem
affordable and convenient but have not tried them yet.
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:04 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDoorGuy View Post
Agree completely with OldDog......

I have had very good leak stopping results by installing these pans in direct
weather situations.

I have had them made up by a sheet metal shop in the past.
Recently I have found some adjustable plastic ones on line that seem
affordable and convenient but have not tried them yet.
The adjustable plastic ones actually work great. We've used them twice now with good results.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:04 PM  
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Thanks for that feedback GrayHouse...
Did you find yours online or local to you?

Off topic....Nice logo!

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Old 12-10-2010, 09:09 AM  
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We purchase them locally from a distributor, but I'm sure--as with anything else---they could be found online

And thanks! The logo was my business partner's idea so I can't take any credit there



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