Basement Ceiling

[JeffK]

Advise Please
Want to use 1x6 wood as rails and drywall panels to make accessible ceiling.

Drywall would be cut into 4'x4' but will be okay with 2'x4'.

Joists are of 2x4 construction on 24" centers

I thought if additional nailing (screwing) is needed, I'd install additional 2x4 members at 24" on center. Hide the screws with a wood medallion in center of drywall, that way I could unscrew and remove panels.

Most concerned about sagging.

Thank you

 

[Snoonyb]

Were it I, I would, instead, use "T" bar, rather than adding the additional weight to the truss-joist system.

 

[JeffK]

Were it I, I would, instead, use "T" bar, rather than adding the additional weight to the truss-joist system.

There are other homes in my tract, that have the same joist system but elected the option of a finished basement, I am the 2nd owner of this 4 year old home.
So, I'm thinking that the weight demand with my system is equal. Also, without the weight of the mud.

Is your concern the weight of the 1x6 material?
I'm very interested in the T bar.
WHat would the design and material be?

I appreciate your ideas!

 

[Snoonyb]

Actually, It's the weight of the drywall, and yes, I'm aware of some of the lighter weight acoustic drywall.

I'd also be aware of the permanence, or the adaptability, of the installed product.

The products I've used extensively are from ARMSTRONG and USG, each of which offer insightful tutorials.

 

[JeffK]

Actually, It's the weight of the drywall, and yes, I'm aware of some of the lighter weight acoustic drywall.

I'd also be aware of the permanence, or the adaptability, of the installed product.

The products I've used extensively are from ARMSTRONG and USG, each of which offer insightful tutorials.

Sorry to take up your time.

The floor trusses seem to meet the spec for a drywall ceiling, although the builder always uses 1/2" on the lids. I have not heard or seen any sagging after 4 years-yet.

Is it the sagging your concern or the weight on the trusses?
I will check out the Armstrong products but would think that they are more than double the cost.
25 sheets of DW is around $350 with delivery and an additional +/- $150 to have 2 guys carry it down the basement stairs, with a U turn at the mid landing. So about $700-$750 including the prime and paint.
I imagine that I can handle the acoustical product by myself, which would be a great solution, if the cost is only double and I don't have to paint it.

Thank you again and I would appreciate any other ideas/comments.

 

[Snoonyb]

You can proceed as you will, Integrity wise, I cannot.

You see, seems too, is no assurance of structural integrity.

I've never installed drywall off a 24" OC. ceiling.

I'm not recommending this, simply because of the cost, but, being in my practice, I often avail myself of the services of civil engineers, so when presented with your situation, I would prevail upon their services, to insure the viability of the endeavor, which for me, would be a walk-in and out visit.

So, you have a finished drywall ceiling, and inadvertently, you damage that ceiling. How long does it take you, or someone you've employed, to return that ceiling to its original finish?

As opposed too, being your a prudent individual, you, in anticipation of the probability of damage occurring, had purchased a few extra ceiling tiles, how long would it take you to replace a damaged tile, in minuets?

 

[JeffK]

You can proceed as you will, Integrity wise, I cannot.

You see, seems too, is no assurance of structural integrity.

I've never installed drywall off a 24" OC. ceiling.

I'm not recommending this, simply because of the cost, but, being in my practice, I often avail myself of the services of civil engineers, so when presented with your situation, I would prevail upon their services, to insure the viability of the endeavor, which for me, would be a walk-in and out visit.

So, you have a finished drywall ceiling, and inadvertently, you damage that ceiling. How long does it take you, or someone you've employed, to return that ceiling to its original finish?

As opposed too, being your a prudent individual, you, in anticipation of the probability of damage occurring, had purchased a few extra ceiling tiles, how long would it take you to replace a damaged tile, in minuets?

Yep, that 24 OC dimension does cause me concern especially if it was a traditional screwed on install.

Obviously, I'm trying to do the job economically and something I can handle.
At 76, installing and taping rock on the ceiling is a thrash for me and I think a panel install would be ticket.

Thanks again!

 

[Snoonyb]

Please post updates, both sides of the coin.

 

[bud16415]

I once put up 1x3 furring strips 16" OC and then covered the basement ceiling with .25 finished and painted garage pegboard. The holes in the pegboard allowed for air flow into the trapped space and are the perfect size for the head of black drywall screws. Yje screws and the holes just look black the same. Simple to take down for access.

I ran the strips 90 degrees to the floor joists.

 

[JeffK]

You can proceed as you will, Integrity wise, I cannot.

You see, seems too, is no assurance of structural integrity.

I've never installed drywall off a 24" OC. ceiling.

I'm not recommending this, simply because of the cost, but, being in my practice, I often avail myself of the services of civil engineers, so when presented with your situation, I would prevail upon their services, to insure the viability of the endeavor, which for me, would be a walk-in and out visit.

So, you have a finished drywall ceiling, and inadvertently, you damage that ceiling. How long does it take you, or someone you've employed, to return that ceiling to its original finish?

As opposed too, being your a prudent individual, you, in anticipation of the probability of damage occurring, had purchased a few extra ceiling tiles, how long would it take you to replace a damaged tile, in minuets?

I appreciate all your insights and will p

I once put up 1x3 furring strips 16" OC and then covered the basement ceiling with .25 finished and painted garage pegboard. The holes in the pegboard allowed for air flow into the trapped space and are the perfect size for the head of black drywall screws. Yje screws and the holes just look black the same. Simple to take down for access.

I ran the strips 90 degrees to the floor joists.

Good solution
Light and finished product and can be removed if necessary.
Did you cover/trim the seams?

Snoonyb has presented some very critical thinking and I am giving it much thought.

Re 24" OC, in the development where my home is, I have not heard of any problems, after 4 years, with the DW sagging or falling, but that's not a long time span. Also, I've read online (if it's online it's got to be the truth-right) that 24" OC is quite common. My former home in NC did have noticeable sagging to me, but I had to point it out to my spouse and neighbor. With the high humidity in NC, I just accepted the sag. Now using DW for a moveable panel, could very well be a negative game changer.

My wife and probably any one that reads this thread, most likely think, that I'm over thinking this and I concede that's true.
However, I'm retired and have the time to kick it around. My goal is primarily to do it myself, economically as possible, with a design that is presentable and safe.

I do thank you and Snoonyb for your thoughts.

 

[bud16415]

I appreciate all your insights and will p

Good solution
Light and finished product and can be removed if necessary.
Did you cover/trim the seams?

Snoonyb has presented some very critical thinking and I am giving it much thought.

Re 24" OC, in the development where my home is, I have not heard of any problems, after 4 years, with the DW sagging or falling, but that's not a long time span. Also, I've read online (if it's online it's got to be the truth-right) that 24" OC is quite common. My former home in NC did have noticeable sagging to me, but I had to point it out to my spouse and neighbor. With the high humidity in NC, I just accepted the sag. Now using DW for a moveable panel, could very well be a negative game changer.

My wife and probably any one that reads this thread, most likely think, that I'm over thinking this and I concede that's true.
However, I'm retired and have the time to kick it around. My goal is primarily to do it myself, economically as possible, with a design that is presentable and safe.

I do thank you and Snoonyb for your thoughts.

The basement I did it in was in an old farmhouse with low ceilings and I couldn’t get full sheets down to the basement. The white painted pegboard had a gold indent at 16” OC and I ripped all the sheets down to 16” strips and then put them up staggering the seams. Where the ends met I cut short pieces of furring and ran 2 screws on both sides of the joint to pull the pieces perfectly flat. I cut holes for pot lights where needed. Doing the narrower strips and with the joints staggered it didn’t look like a 4x8 sheet job.



I used the room for a home media room and the holes I found later worked well as a sound trap.

 

[JeffK]

The basement I did it in was in an old farmhouse with low ceilings and I couldn’t get full sheets down to the basement. The white painted pegboard had a gold indent at 16” OC and I ripped all the sheets down to 16” strips and then put them up staggering the seams. Where the ends met I cut short pieces of furring and ran 2 screws on both sides of the joint to pull the pieces perfectly flat. I cut holes for pot lights where needed. Doing the narrower strips and with the joints staggered it didn’t look like a 4x8 sheet job.



I used the room for a home media room and the holes I found later worked well as a sound trap.

Good solution!