Problem moving latch plate for door lock

[streetglider]

I have a bathroom door that does not latch and will not lock. I researched it some and have determined that the problem is the location of the latch plate. It needs to be moved down about 1/2 inch. Unfortunately,
that moves the top screw into the area where the wood was removed to form the space for the latch to enter. I guess I can use a longer screw but the door will sure looked hacked up. Any suggestions? Will I have to replace the whole trim piece the plate is attached to? TIA

 

[Jeff Handy]

Sounds like your door is sagging in the frame.
Post some pics with it closed, showing how it hangs relative to the trim across the top.

You can correct a sagging door by tightening the top hinge screws into the jamb.
Sometimes the whole top of the jamb is pulling away from the framing, and you can remove all the top hinge screws from the jamb, and install new longer ones very tightly, to pull the top part of the jamb back tight against the framing.
Use 2 1/2 inch or 3 inch deck screws, or any wood screw with a flat head that will fit pretty well into the tapered holes in the hinge leaf.

You can also add thin cardboard shims inside the jamb mortise for the bottom and middle hinge leaf.
Add two shims at bottom, and one in the middle mortise.
Cut them from thin cardboard like from a cereal box.

The shims will kick the door out from the jamb at the bottom, which will lift up the latch side, and decrease the mis-alignment you have now.

Sometimes the doorknob is also sitting too high in its cutout.
You can try to loosen the screws holding the knob tight to the door, then try to move the knob down a little lower into its cutout hole.

This will make the latch point a little bit higher.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Of course, after adjusting the door like this, you can still move the strike plate down a little to line up better.
You can also take a file and enlarge the opening at the bottom, almost all the way to the screw hole.

 

[Snoonyb]

There are also a myriad of styles of elongated strike plates available.

 

[streetglider]

Thank you. I made sure the screws in the hinges were tight and used the cardboard to shim the jamb mortises as you suggested. I think I was able to move the knob down a little as well. I moved the strike plate down a bit too just using a longer screw. It is not nearly as noticeable as I was concerned about and with a little paint, you won't see it at all. The door locks now as it should.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Glad that your door is working better.

The key issue is always the top hinge.
Yes, the jamb or door hinge screws might be loose and can be tightened.
You can also use bigger screws, or pack toothpicks into the holes, if the screws just spin without cranking down super tight.

But to really suck the hinge tighter against the jamb, you need to change out the short screws that just screw into the jamb.

You need screws that go THROUGH the jamb and now will be anchored into the stud behind the jamb, so they can pull the jamb tighter against that stud.

So if your problem comes back, you can take these more aggressive measures.

 

[Sparky617]

If the door isn't binding and closes but doesn't latch I'd get an enlarged striker plate.

 

[streetglider]

I appreciated all the replies. I will keep this in mind as my house is hitting about 20 years old now and starting to develop new issues all the time. This forum seems like it is going to be a great help to me.