Recent content by Diehard

Glad to hear it! All's well that ends well. All my soldering has been limited to propane, as I am not a plumber. I was a plumbers helper(with my father and brother) part time for many years when young but my mother didn't want me to come home dirty all the time, so I ended up dabbling in...

Okay...looking forward to the install and results.:) Good luck!!!

Yes I give in!:bow: I was basing my assumption of the flow direction on the fact that it was connected to the domestic HW circulating loop. I neglected the CW drop from above. In response to earlier questions... Thermal expansion could definitely cause pressure to go exceptionally high when it...

As I suspected, that low pressure PRV behind the boiler is connected to the domestic hot water system, which is suppose to be the high pressure. Your sketch shows it connected to the Heating system. Don't you agree or am I missing something? Where is that High pressure PRV tee'd into the...

Yes I agree with the addition of the expansion tank and the check valve in those locations shown on your diagram. I'm not so sure about your circulator pressurizing the cold water feed. A circulator for that application typically wouldn't be capable of producing a pressure greater than the...

:great:

BTW...I'm not sure if you're required to retrofit an existing system with that backflow preventer I show. Nor if your jurisdiction requires it. I also have an oil fired hot water boiler with the tankless option for domestic hot water and do not have one either. But the next time some work is...

We're missing something here. Let me first ask, how is your domestic hot water pressure at your fixtures? You say, "The prv above the boiler does in fact tie into the domestic cold." And you also said that it is set to run at 12-15 psi. When I said it looks like it connects up to the...

You had mentioned, "The thermostat for the circulator I thought was set by the aquastat on the boiler. 160-180 degrees." Both your pictures, as well as the diagram, shows an immersion aquastat on the storage tank for control of the circulator. Whatever difference or variance in water...

Yes that diagram, does in fact, confirms that storage tank was designed for that setup. So you're saying that "The prv behind the boiler is set to run at 12-15 psi." Or in other words the heating system pressure, for feeding the heating system make-up water. Why does it look like it connects...

I'm in bed right now but it sure would be nice to see the recommended design the tank came with.

Well I don't have time right now but here goes. I couldn't follow the piping connections very well and apparently misread them if that PRV behind the boiler is the low pressure unit. As it appeared to be feeding the domestic water side and not the heating water side. It was pretty tough to see...

I'm a bit confused. Here's my take... You have an oil fired boiler apparently equipped with a tankless water heater, which provides domestic hot water, at your domestic water pressure, and in the absence of a visible tempering valve, at close to the same temperature your heating water is set...

What make and model PRV(Pressure Reducing Valve)? What was the preset pressure setting from factory? What pressure are you getting that's not holding? What is happening when you get "surge hammer as well as a stopping water hammer"? (Not sure what the you feel the difference is.) Are you aware...

That's only when the outdoor temperature is lower than 20-below. I believe it has to do with the dew point, which, of course is the actual point where you start getting damaging condensation. If it is too dry for you, you can increase it a bit but should then try to insulate your house better.