The plastic T section where the spigot screws in is broken. Any ideas how to replace it without dismantling the whole system? The right side goes into the house and left side down into the ground to sprinkler system.
I was thinking of cutting both vertical pipes below the T section, removing...
I have a gas furnace with an indirect water heater and 4 heating zones (plus hot water). Couple of days ago I woke up and the basement floor was wet which was due to the water leaking from the pressure relief valve. Since then I have replaced the pressure relief valve on the furnace, both...
I do not have sump pump or a microwave. No need for a hair dryer or "multiple things at once" for the few hours the power goes out once a year. I am also not going to be juggling extension cords or wires if I have the transfer switch all setup. I did have a big generator and to be honest, it was...
My small generator puts out 2300W of constant power (2500W peak). I haven't done any calculations but it should run refrigerator and heat (furnace) which is gas and needs little power for the electronics and igniter. With a four circuit transfer switch I will still have two circuits to use for...
I have a small portable generator which I have to take out of the garage, start and connect to the outlet in the outside wall. I don't think automatic switch would be worth for that.
Yes, I will have a manual transfer switch (I did mention that in my original inquiry). The switch will only have 4 circuits as I really need to just run fridge and heat.
I have a small portable generator (2200W / 120V). It is only used for emergencies (heat and lights in the winter and fridge and lights in the summertime) when the power goes out (which thankfully doesn't happen very often). I would like to wire a small manual transfer switch (up to four...
I was able to remove the light can by just pulling it down with some force. There are no clips or springs. The can is just held by friction against the outer mounting trim.
It was the expansion tank. It was filled with water. After I have replaced it with a new one and set the correct PSI, no more leaky pressure relief valve.
I have a gas furnace that powers my hot water storage tank and baseboard heat. The pressure valve started to leak when furnace is heating up the water. I thought the valve is old and leaking so I have replaced it with a new one. Unfortunately, the new one leaks as well when water is being heated...
I have looked at the wall and the most I could add is 1-1.5" of foam. 2" would be flush with the edge of the roof and 4" would require extending roof line.
I will try to seal all the air leaks and see if I can insulate the crawl space a bit more though that may be tough looking at the small...
The baseboard heat is part of the first floor heating system so it is not separate. I cannot run it all the time. Next room is 6-8 times the size with only 6ft baseboard and heat works fine there. I think the problem is with weak insulation of the walls and the crawl space underneath. Plus some...
I have a 4ft baseboard heat in the mudroom. There is 1 window and 1 door. Open space between mudroom and rest of the house. There is a closet on the wall where door is and the opposite wall has a full wall built-in so the open space is not that big. There are some drafts by the light switches...