Recent content by SeattleCraftsman

The 2x4 laying flat was/is my way of ensuring that I have something to nail drywall to that I know is flush with the studs on both sides. No other reason.

Yes I am cutting out the plate at the bottom. I used to that to make sure the bottom was level (my floor slopes by 1.5" from right to left in the image). I will not be putting doors in the opening. I suppose you are right that a couple of cripple studs would be enough to keep it in place.

I'm currently framing a wide opening between my dining room and entryway in a non-load-bearing wall. Do any of you have advice on what style of header to use to keep it from sagging in the middle? My initial plan was to use a 2x4 laying flat with a 2x6 header above that, but it seems like...

You have a good point, but I should clarify that this is a "before" picture. In the "after" we have a 120 inch long wall with a 91" window in it. The ends of the window are ~14.5" from the corner of the room, so I don't have anywhere else to put the outlets.

This area will be a dining room and has one wall, the one with the window. The other sides of the room are an archway to the entryway, an archway to the kitchen, and a staircase with a knee wall and built in cabinets. There is nowhere else to put outlets. This is a 700 sq ft house, so many of...

So I'm rewiring my house and I am weighing my options for routing the electrical wire. I sketched up the two options in paint (the photo shows my old windows before reframing for and installing new double hungs). My first option is to run the wire up through the floor from the basement, then...

Thanks for clarifying. I have to raise my subfloor with 3/4" plywood sleepers to accommodate radiant tubing and level the floor, so I'll measure my rough openings from the top of that. I'm using 3/8" engineered hardwood, so I don't want to install the door frame too high, but I can leave plenty...

Sure, adjustments can be made, but I have to know what the "standard" is to know which way I should adjust. Does measuring from the subfloor give me a 3/4" door gap over 3/4" hardwood, or (more unlikely) a 1/4" gap over 3/8" hardwood? I don't have the prehung doors on hand, so I'm missing the...

So I have finally gotten around to framing my door openings and I have mixed information. I'm intending to install 28" wide, 7'0" (84") tall prehung doors. I get that the rough opening should be 2" larger than the size of the door, so in this case 30" x 86". What I am confused about is whether...

Thanks for the help everyone. I used a razor blade to gently score it and then scrape under the "putty" while pulling it off. Easy. This certainly does seem like something they should do coming out of the plant, but oh well!

My old craftsman house has cedar shake siding over old tongue and groove siding. I'm moving my front door over and moving a few windows, so I need to find some sheathing material to fill the holes left at each of those locations. The problem is that my choices are either 3/4" plywood or 1"...

It's on the exterior of the pane where I can feel it. Sorry the pictures aren't great I took them through the plastic wrap in case I need to return the door.

Hi all, I'm in the middle of a whole home renovation that is going to include moving my front door location. I just ordered, and received, a new exterior door from Simpson. When I got home yesterday I went to check it out and found that there is an excessive amount of adhesive squeezed out...