Recent content by Zomalaja

This exterior wall must have an interior, right ? If it is faced with drywall, etc. you could cut out the correct section, do what needs to be done and patch a new piece in. If it is also stapled (as was mentioned), pulling could cause some real problems.

Got a new breaker this AM early and the light has been on steady for almost 6 hours. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Yes, certainly.

The reason the manufacturer does not want the user to cut the cable is at least partially because the lamp may need to be changed. When you pull out enough cable to get the fixture in a place to change the bulb, the end could get submerged. The liquidtite run from the JBox to the panel is around...

Is that not the same as what I have ? Mine has a white button marked "TEST" that instantly trips the breaker when pressed. looks like this one

Dry it can only be energized for a minute or so. A 300W bulb sealed in a space scarcely larger than itself gets very hot very fast. Pool lights depend on the pool water for cooling.

Yes it does. If I remember correctly they tell you never ever cut the cord except to make it shorter, use a separate wire to bond all grounded parts. Their actual spec calls for a #8 ground, the problem is that the hole in the ring that you are supposed to pass the wire through before tightening...

Cutting the cable is not going to happen. the liquid-tite is bonded to the cabinet only because it is physically connected. I used a seperate ground wire to bond the mounting ring, the junction box and conduit, the cabinet and ground.

Done that - bypassed the switch and then bypassed the switch and switch wiring. Tomorrow will tell more, planning on pulling the light out and trying elsewhere - damn pool is NOT warm at all.....

I have already bypassed the switch as well as the switch wiring, no difference. I have no idea what is meant by "The benefit of Installing a smart GFCI in the brass pool box." I have a GFI pass-thru device meant for a std box, there is no way it could be properly installed in the pool...

Speedbump - there is no transformer. As I mentioned earlier "The light is a Hayward SP0582SL50 Astrolight 300W 120V with 50ft Cord." As far as I know, LED based pool lights have a 120/240 to 12V transformer, and some Incandescent/Halogen etc lights have a low voltage option. See the light here...

No worries at all.

The light came with a 50 foot 16/3 water resistant jacketed cable. The brass conduit goes from the light niche in the pool to a brass box approximately 3 feet above the pool water level. From there a piece of metallic flex (Liquitite?) goes to the main panel. All the connections are inside that...

If you are saying that you asked a dumb question, I'd say no problem. If you are saying that I asked a dumb question, I'd say please try helping instead of insulting.

There are no connections in the Junction Box-I deliberately avoided cutting the cable. The box is connected to the panel with metallic flex and there is a separate ground from the panel to the Junction Box.