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:clap: It's a 240v hermostat with heat sync and all so I'm assuming line.. Someone elsewhere said it's Normal because that's how it maintains precise temp by keeping the unit from getting too cold..

You're thinking of the "Swing Range" setting.. Usually on gas furnaces it's set to 1 or 2 degrees F.. This unit says +-.27 of a degree F..(and not configurable) so very tight tolerance.. Maybe it doesn't matter on electric heaters the same way it would on a gas unit?

Gotcha... Well I can attest to the fact that it does work right, and keeps the right temperature better than it ever has.. It's just the constant on-off that has me worried. The slight metal pinging noises it makes when it heats up and shuts down.. It just does it too often when at operating...

The heater is on its own breaker circuit.. 15amp, 240V.. so it can be turned off at any time, especially off season. The instruction manual clearly shows wiring instructions for 4 wire and 2 wire setups, so I assume it's safe and expected.

Hello, I have an 8 foot baseboard heater and picked up a Honeywell RLV3100A to replace the ancient knob thermostat that was totally inaccurate and at times caused the heat to never come on, or stay on until the room was burning hot.. Nevertheless it's gone.. It as a 4 wire with ground...

When installing in a window, and using the factory installed curtains on the side that slide out - is the bottom of these curtains supposed to be on the "outside" of the lip at the bottom of the window so it seals from that side? It just seems like there is less holding the unit in place if...

There is only a 2 by 4 (door frame) between the door and the concrete wall... I bought a 4 screw security strike plate for the dead bolt lock, and have to screw into the concrete to make the door much stronger with 3 inch screws... I have a regular drill, and plenty of bits... It is a battery...