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What type of paints are involved? Interior or exterior, latex or oil? Inadvertently mixing and matching the two can cause problems at times, but it's less common with modern paints.

One thing you must do is look at your normal routine and identify your "problem" times. I used to drive 2 hrs to and from work every day down in DC, and it didn't take me long to realize that a good chunk of the smoking was done in the truck, sitting in traffic with nothing to do but sip coffee...

An outside corner over the existing bulkhead corner would be the fix for me, even if I had to make the moulding myself out of a few pieces of standard OG base trim.

What type of screws, was it glued, etc are all big questions. The gap needed to cause a squeak is sometimes so small you can't even see it move while staring directly at it. Speaking of staring at it...can you see the floor joists below, or is it finished?

Neal is dead on with the arches...they are tough to get right. First the openings need to be roughly the same size...they just look better that way. Everyone will naturally look at them...then compare them...then critique them in their minds...drawing attention away from the house as a whole...

My :2cents: can sort of be summed up in my signature line. Definitely get a qualified engineer on it asap. Just reading through this thread made me nervous and angry at the same time Good luck with it all.

Holding in the $3.50 range. On another note, I just heard on the radio today that our esteemed Governor is now going to introduce legislation to raise the gas tax by 30 cents, not the previously reported 15 cents. :clap: :clap: I am now trying to think of a way to cram all of my tools...

Believe me, I am doing more exercise now than I ever did...all aimed at my core and back muscles. I don't necessarily need to STOP working in the field, I just need to stop working STUPID in the field. I am one of those idiots that in my younger years took on tasks I simply should have...

Yeah, pre-mixed grout in a bag gives me the willies...lol.

Especially in this economy, where keeping the tool belt off is tougher than ever. When it was booming, I did more on the phone in my office (truck). Now........someone's gotta do it right.

Yeah, the prep would be the tough part. Ductwork is normally galvanized, has to have the oil stripped off of it in order for paint to stick. Other parts would have similar issues. Got a pic of the situation?

At least around here, replacement window installation "specialists" run around largely un-regulated and un-watched. They tear out the old from outside, install the new behind the casing, look at the gap between the new window and the old framing, and cover it up with aluminum. I've been on...

Would duct cleaning take care of that sort of thing? I know it's aimed at dust mainly...but maybe the cause of the smell is sticking to the crud in the ductwork??

All of last summer was spent in a chiropractor's office, tending to 2 bad disks in my lower back...L3 and L4 area I believe. Now that I can walk again and not be in constant pain, my resolution (which was actually "made" last September) was to get my own company back up and running again after...

Definitely an engineer...he will do actual calcs on it...some contractors will use their intuition instead of data...not always good.

Knowing replacement window contractors in this area like I do...I doubt they did anything at all. Most of them cut the old out behind the casing, slide in the new, cover the exterior damage with aluminum...sometimes they actually caulk it.:eek:

I'm guessing they went up one stick at a time...thinking about doing it solo makes my back hurt, so I'm not gonna :D

2x4 header doesn't sound right...usually 2x6 at minimum. Gable wall in this garage, maybe? People will often set small headers in gable walls when they aren't even needed...just to make it look right to them.

Well, if you get under there and see alot of rot, all this info I'm about to type will be irrelevant...I'm assuming that the joists are in decent shape, just sagging from the weight of time. I'm also assuming that you have enough access under there to get full length joists inside, and that the...

A few of the first checks are relatively simple for anyone to do...usually. Find the floor joist direction, bearing walls are perpendicular to them both top and bottom.....usually. Bearing walls on older homes like yours are usually stacked on one another...or close. As Neal said...