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Unless you own a tile saw and grout floats -- or are willing to buy these for a one-time project -- and learn how to use them, this isn't a DIY thing.

MinCost & Inspector D, Pardon my forgetting that many people really don't understand the theory behind a load-bearing wall. I've been doing this for a long time and such things just seem like common sense to me... "Well, I didn't see any colimns with "Lally" written on them in the basement...

The epoxy-based paints from HD and Lowes work just fine, as long as you clean and rinse the concrete well and let it dry. Hey Darryl, Nanook of BC,,, _______________________________________________________________ Disrespectful replies will not go unnoticed. This forum is not about...

Agreed, paint doesn't adhere to 100% silicone caulk. There are, however, many paintable caulks -- it'll say "paintable" right on the tube -- that contain silicone as well as good non-silicone products like Phenoseal.

Understand that some slate tiles need to be leveled as they're set because they're not flat to begin with -- not all, but some. I agree with sealing the tiles as that's what many mfrs recommend -- it's porus stone and may absorb the tints from the grout and compound from the mastic.

Lets get a grip there, Inspector D. A few of us here are licensed contractors and finding a load-bearing wall is not brain surgery. Rules of thumb: A. All outside walls are load-bearing. B. The load-bearing wall in a two or three family home is the typically in the center of the basement and...

Unfortunately, there's no was to restore or repair the baked-on glaze on a ceramic tile. That shine is a result of the tiles being heated until the colored pigments melted and fused with the clay body. Just have to live with it =)

May or may not be asbestos, tho it was more common in the 60s than the 70s. Might be plain old linoleum, too. Is it glued down, is the main question in my mind. If so, it's almost impossible to remove anyhow as they typically used an asphalt-based black adhesive. I'd vote for the go-over...

I've run across various refacing projects where beautiful oak doors and drawer fronts had been put on tired particleboard cabinets. I mean CHEAP cabinets, like bargain basement quality. Everything looked great until you opened the door. There's a dividing line where refacing just isn't...

Folks have pretty much covered it in these posts. This isn't a job for the faint of heart. To begin with it's physically a lot of work and the measurements need to be right-on in order to get the new cabinets. Then there's disconnecting and reinstalling the sink, disposal, dishwasher, etc...

$500? Add another zero to that and you're off to a good start! Understand that leveling a house is a major undertaking. I'd suggest you get a good structural engineer to take a look then take it from there.

These guys have said it all, this really isn't a job for Joe DIY unless he plans to spend several days at it along with a couple strong pals. This is no joke. =) It's a lot of heavy work and requires some knowledge. Some points to ponder are that the tub is also wider than the walls...

MikMar about said it all. Tub liners are vinyl and scratch easily --can't just scrub them with Comet if stains build up and every tub needs cleaning. The same can be said for tub refinishing, although it's actually an epoxy coating instead of a vinyl cover. It's your dime, take your chances.

Suggest you get the people who installed the opener to come back and fix it. If the door opens freely by hand, they obviously mounted something wrong.

Tankless HWH draw a lot of amperage, but much depends on how much electricity is being used by other things in your home. Electric dryer or stove, central air and electric heat all use up a great deal of power. Typically a tankless HWH requires it's own 40A/220v circuit, so that's 40A that...

Hire a licensed electrician. A basic point to keep in mind is that you need 100A PER UNIT-- not 100A going to the house then getting split up to power an apartment, too. This is based on the idea that modern places use a lot of juice -- microwaves, TV/Stereo. dryers, etc -- and this is the...

I've installed miles of both PT and composite decking in New England. The upside of composite decking is that it doesn't require oiling or staining every few years, in fact it doesn't require anything except a cleaning now and then. It also doesn't split or crack over time, nor does it warp as...

Unlicensed builders can't even get builders insurance around here (Mass). If something goes wrong, you're stuck. Hire a licensed contractor and get what you pay for.

Depends what's on there now -- paint? stain? wood sealer? What do you plan to put on? If it's paint, scrape off the loose stuff, wash off the dirt and then prime and paint it. If it's stain, clean it off and left it dry and then stain it again. If it's wood sealer, you're pretty much...

About $250.00 for an inspection with a written report. Of course, that's here in Boston and it may vary from place to place.