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know this is an old post but,,, its not difficult to regrade a porch to provide positive waterflow altho you won't find the mtls at any apron store,,, instead, look for a const supply house OR a dec conc supplier who's got ' just add water ' hybrid-polymer-modified cements in bags,,, we use...

i'll sit in the back row for a bit :) promise i won't make noise during rest period :p

nestor & i share parallel lives but i digress,,, obviously you're all right & i'm wrong & that's fine,,, however, time is a precious resource & the op's questions better're answered in basic apron store paperbacks,,, should anyone have more specific items which need clarification, my history's...

i'll let the administrator respond to your questions incl water/cement ratio, slump, redi-mix vs bag, finishing, forming, placing, curing, jointing, base prep, ad nauseum for all the other items involved,,, he should enjoy that part,,, w/the poster's level of knowledge, he won't have enough...

these forums are for more specific questions - you best bet's to grab up a concrete book at any apron store - good luck !

don't be a woos - instead, grab up a decent siz'd demo bar & yank 'em out :D then ask how to fix the craters :) i like a dremel instead !

so much for the stuff you buy in apron stores :mad: i'd rather think you fail'd to neutralize the acid-stain metallic salts & remove them sufficiently for the sealer to adhere because both the stain AND the sealer were by the same manufacturer,,, did you happen to call their customer-no-svce #...

i would but i like post & beam,,, it would even be reasonable to create permanent living quarters - PERIOD !

craig's list is full of those guys & some even know what they're doing :) unfortunately most buyers posting for work on cl either think they're gc's or too much of themselves :rofl: we won't work for them,,, send me a note if you wish - we're in marietta & might be able to recommend someone...

1, probably not; 2, probably; 3, probably not; 4, chipping gun w/brick chisel &/or grinder & turbo diamond segmented cup wheel; & 5, probably not,,, sounds like conc & not stone,,, you might consider applying a dec conc coating to original wall to hide grinder tracks,,, other'n that, all the...

good point - you may find the kerosene residual stain far less annoying :eek:

you're polish conc & glass,,, the pads're thick enough so no digging UNLESS the operator's a complete jerk :welcome: from what i recall, washing the glass's extremely important,,, nova may remember harry's post from this place - Find Decorative Concrete Contractors, Decorative Concrete...

forget who makes 'em but we've install'd power vents into crawl spaces controll'd by a humidistat,,, dow here they can't seem to make up their minds - vented OR unvented :D personally i like vented !

here's some more reading for you - probably the best layman explanation of wet bsmts & structure reinforcement. Foundation Technology

:agree: yep, glenn's right ! ! ! however, i'd want some steel in the conc just in case,,, the preferr'd spec's to use a bonding agent ( epoxy for concrete ) which's painted onto the existing DRY con then fresh conc's pour'd against it,,, btw, #4 bar's just about right to me !

franmar makes some good stuff,,, another possibility's making a poultice from diatomaceous earth ( swimming pool supply ) & solvent ( we use maptha )

we never had any luck w/aggregate taking ANY color even w/877 sher-wms tints & solvent-bas'd sealer ( eliteCrete's ' CSS ' ),,, IF it were mine, i'd consider adding a band of distinction between the slabs however i can't see your house from my house

pressure wash it before doing anything to remove the dirt that's accumulated since placing,,, slate gets laid in mortar, NOT thin-set,,, don't worry too much about it, tho, as the slate'll pop off when the water freezes - yes, even here in atlanta,,, that's why its not suggested as you wish

what dummies :rofl: ' harry, hand me the 100' tape this time - NOT the 50' tape !!! ',,, i'd like to be certain HOW the new rebar's attach'd but it wouldn't bother me if it were my house,,, code's #4 bar ( bar's measured in 1/8" increments - #8 bar's 1" ),,, we used #5 rather'n #4 but code's...

i like that online book so much i've call'd peak's owner to ask permission to link,,, its the best i've ever seen that describes problems/solutions in terms customers can understand,,, even better'n the univ of iowa's - NOT to be confused w/what's happening in this administration's health care...