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Imthatgirl

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2023-11-01 01_48_00.172-0700.jpg

Ok I feel really dumb cause I'm sure this is probably something I should know... Im replacing ceiling fan. This metal thicker than wire wire is coming from inside the ceiling. I don't see anywhere on new fan where it would attach to and so I'm uncertain where it goes. If anyone could let me know what I'm supposed to do with it I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
 
Welcome.
Assuming you are referring to the bare conductor, it's likely a ground conductor and should be attached to the pancake box, and the ground conductor of the ceiling fan.
 
Welcome.
Assuming you are referring to the bare conductor, it's likely a ground conductor and should be attached to the pancake box, and the ground conductor of the ceiling fan.
Thank you. Next dumb question...since the ground wires (green) connect to each other from the bracket and the ball rod assembly, wheres the ground conductor of the fan? Is it the top of bracket that attaches to the plate in the ceiling? If so how does it connect? I've attached photos . Thank you for your help!
20231103_180812.jpg



20231103_182537.jpg20231103_180938.jpg
 
You'll find that some pancake boxes are tapped, and some aren't, so for those that are, you use grounding screw, in 1 of the 4 smaller holes in the b ox, and for those that aren't tapped, you use a TEKS screw and attach the bare conductor, clockwise around the screw, leaving a stub that you can then attach the grnd's from the appliance too, with a wire nut.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-8-x-1-2-in-External-Hex-Flange-Hex-Head-Self-Drilling-Screws-280-Pack-21308/100188836

https://www.amazon.com/Skywalker-Si...ing+screws&qid=1699103542&s=industrial&sr=1-3
 
However, and I should have asked this earlier, what's in the ceiling that you are attaching the pancake box to, and will it carry the weight and motion of the appliance, should it become out of balance?
 
However, and I should have asked this earlier, what's in the ceiling that you are attaching the pancake box to, and will it carry the weight and motion of the appliance, should it become out of balance?
I'm assuming it's a safety brace since it was what the old fans bracket was attached to.
It's a steel framed house with lots of voids and just some quarter inch thick ,if that, dry wall so nothing really can be even anchored no less screwed directly into ceiling or walls..
To clarify so im clear - the bracket has a ground wire and screw as seen in previous photo. So the 2 green grounds connect with a wire nut and the copper wire connects to where the screw is for the ground wire on bracket?
 
Thanks.
yes, the pancake attaches too the anchoring receptacle in the ceiling with 2 #8 screws and the bare grnd. conductor is wrapped clockwise around a grnding. screw, with a short pigtail remaining, the the appliance green conductors, in photo's 1 & 3 of post 3, are attached to that pigtail, with a wire nut.

Steel framed, interesting, your not near RED HILL & WALNUT, in ORANGE CNTY., CA.
 
Thanks.
yes, the pancake attaches too the anchoring receptacle in the ceiling with 2 #8 screws and the bare grnd. conductor is wrapped clockwise around a grnding. screw, with a short pigtail remaining, the the appliance green conductors, in photo's 1 & 3 of post 3, are attached to that pigtail, with a wire nut.

Steel framed, interesting, your not near RED HILL & WALNUT, in ORANGE CNTY., CA.
Thank you for all your help. I appreciate it so much!
No I am not in OC... used to live there 20+ years ago, but no longer.
 
Me too, left in 2016. Just wondered because there is a developed community there, all steel framed.
 
A Few Hints For You, ImThatGirl:

Look carefully at the junction box. The one in the photo is called a "Ceiling Pan". It will have a hole with GR stamped next to it. That's for the grounding screw. (In your 3rd photo, it's the one at 12:15 o'clock) It is tapped for #8-32 machine screw.

Don't use a sheet metal screw for the equipment grounding conductor attachment point. It's not allowed (as if the electrons care). Machine screws or nut/lockwasher/screw are allowed. Any 8-32 is allowed, so there is no need to buy a box of grounding screws.

All of the grounding conductors should be together (ideally crimped) with one left longer and going to the ceiling pan. That's ideal, but you have to do what is possible with the tools that you have.

When putting the wire nut type connectors on, hold the two wires next to each other. Make the smaller, fine strand wire extend past the thicker, solid building wire about 3/16". When you put the twist-on connector (aka Wire nut), it will force the smaller conductor into the cap where it gets gripped better.

Always, with twist-on connectors, hold the connector & tug each wire to endure they are gripped well

Enjoy Your Project!

Paul
 
A Few Hints For You, ImThatGirl:

Look carefully at the junction box. The one in the photo is called a "Ceiling Pan". It will have a hole with GR stamped next to it. That's for the grounding screw. (In your 3rd photo, it's the one at 12:15 o'clock) It is tapped for #8-32 machine screw.

Don't use a sheet metal screw for the equipment grounding conductor attachment point. It's not allowed (as if the electrons care). Machine screws or nut/lockwasher/screw are allowed. Any 8-32 is allowed, so there is no need to buy a box of grounding screws.

All of the grounding conductors should be together (ideally crimped) with one left longer and going to the ceiling pan. That's ideal, but you have to do what is possible with the tools that you have.

When putting the wire nut type connectors on, hold the two wires next to each other. Make the smaller, fine strand wire extend past the thicker, solid building wire about 3/16". When you put the twist-on connector (aka Wire nut), it will force the smaller conductor into the cap where it gets gripped better.

Always, with twist-on connectors, hold the connector & tug each wire to endure they are gripped well

Enjoy Your Project!

Paul
Grounding screws are GREEN, too be recognized, as such.

I, always, whether solid, stranded, or a combination, twist the conductors together, PRIOR TO, installing a wire nut.
 
Me too, left in 2016. Just wondered because there is a developed community there, all steel framed.
Ah.. in Upland. Steel framed sounded like such a great idea at the time- unfortunately we weren't aware that if we wanted to hang anything on the walls we'd essentially have to epoxy or glue the anchors into the wall to keep things from falling. Smh...
 
Steel framed, in Upland? Near Monte Vista?
 
Grounding screws are GREEN, too be recognized, as such.

I, always, whether solid, stranded, or a combination, twist the conductors together, PRIOR TO, installing a wire nut.
Unless the connector's manufacturer requires twisting, twisting is optional and is debated to no end. I do it with 3 or more solid and not with stranded. But what do I know? (47+ years master & former inspector)
<To be honest, I like push-ins and Buchanan's instead of twist-ons. They're faster to be sure.>

If you like to pre-twist, here's a hint:
Twist with your linesman (linespeople?) pliers and slightly ease up on the pressure as you slide the jaws toward the end of the conductors. You'll have a nice taper. Then, snip the end at a 45-degree angle. The nut will go on super easy and securely.

Don't pre-twist the fine strand fixture wire into the bundle.
Lay it next to the others that you twisted or didn't twist. Leave it sticking past about 3/16". It'll get wrapped around and pressed tightly (by the spring in the connector) into the others- twisted or not.

Always look at solid wire near the insulation to be sure you didn't nick it with the strippers. It'll break off when you twist- Or worse: Later
When the nut is on, pull each conductor individually.

Don't use the Wire Nut type connectors that don't have a wire spring inside. Some that come with import light fixtures are plain plastic. The wire spring in a real one is square edged and makes a lot of difference. (Those plastic ones make great caps for opened caulking tubes.)

Tool Suggestion:
If you do a lot of twist-on connectors, there are screwdrivers with a socket in the butt of the handle that is used to grip & twist the connector. They work great on hard shell connectors, but don't work too well with the soft sided Wire Nut brand twist-ons. I use the stubby ones with the screw driver end made to slide over conduit fitting set screws. It makes working at odd angles easier. (Klein & Greenlee make them.)

Paul

PS: Three is only one place in the NEC where the equipment grounding screw has to be green. If I remember correctly, the citation is NFPA 70 at 250.126

That one place is on a wiring device. Examples are a light switch or receptacle outlet. This is the screw that comes installed by the manufacturer. The screw on such devices also has to be not easily removable.

Anywhere else, a grounding screw can be any color your heart desires- even the load center bonding screw (which are green to meet UL, ETL, etc. Not to meet NFPA 70).

The screw can be hex, pan, round, fillister, socket, truss, elevator & more. It's your choice.
 
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