Tongue and Groove Ceiling, That First Board

[remout]

I'm not wanting to assume anything so here goes. T&G 3/4" thick in a new addition. The framing was done by a pro and so far I've found it very straight. Joists are 16" OC.

Seems like the first board is critical. How do you guys position that first one so the ceiling turns out straight?

Many thanks!

 

[bud16415]

That first strip sets up all the others and nothing saying that first board is straight. I take a few measurements and then snap a chalk line and face nail that first board to the line. You may have to spring it a little to get it on the line.

 

[frodo]

That first strip sets up all the others and nothing saying that first board is straight. I take a few measurements and then snap a chalk line and face nail that first board to the line. You may have to spring it a little to get it on the line.

pick one wall, sq off of it

 

[Snoonyb]

I'm not wanting to assume anything so here goes. T&G 3/4" thick in a new addition. The framing was done by a pro and so far I've found it very straight. Joists are 16" OC.

Seems like the first board is critical. How do you guys position that first one so the ceiling turns out straight?

Many thanks!

In both a square or rectangle the reveal should be considered, in that, will you have a 5" board on one end and a 2" on the other, and does it matter.

Or are you planning a technical crown mold to mitigate that.

The 1st step is to survey and square the room.

I'll square diagonally and place the first board to compensate for any disparity.Should there be a large disparity, I'll then do 6,8 and 10's to determine which wall/s are out, and how far.

Also to insure an equal reveal on both the first and last board.

As discussed, the first board, either end or center placed, is aligned off of a chalk line.

There have been times when we start from the center and work both ways.

 

[slownsteady]

I've seen "work both ways" mentioned a couple times in this thread, and each time I see it I wonder how you handle the end boards in a T&G situation. And also how you nail it.
Anyone care to clear that up?

 

[remout]

Okay, here's my interpretation of how to do it with my joists running perpendicular to wall #1:

Use the 3-4-5 rule to decide which wall to square off of.
Take revel into account.

Am I getting close?

 

[Snoonyb]

I've seen "work both ways" mentioned a couple times in this thread, and each time I see it I wonder how you handle the end boards in a T&G situation. And also how you nail it.
Anyone care to clear that up?

There is "generally" a trim which finishes the application and in the case of a narrow finish piece I assemble the next to last and the last and install them as an assembly, taking advantage of the natural flexibility provided by the tongue and groove.

I've also chamfered the back side of the last board.

It can depend on the nailer being used. Some have a longer nose.

Are the nails visible in nailed flooring?

 

[slownsteady]

There is "generally" a trim which finishes the application and in the case of a narrow finish piece I assemble the next to last and the last and install them as an assembly, taking advantage of the natural flexibility provided by the tongue and groove.

I've also chamfered the back side of the last board.

It can depend on the nailer being used. Some have a longer nose.

Are the nails visible in nailed flooring?

So it doesn't matter if t you nail thru the tongue or the groove?

 

[slownsteady]

Okay, here's my interpretation of how to do it with my joists running perpendicular to wall #1:

Use the 3-4-5 rule to decide which wall to square off of.
Take revel into account.

Am I getting close?

Seems to me that you have to make sure you're parallel to wall #1. That's where the eye will go.

 

[nealtw]

I would start by finding the center or the room and them measure back to a start line close to a wall. If you find one end wider than the other you have to decide where is the best place to hide the difference.

 

[bud16415]

I've seen "work both ways" mentioned a couple times in this thread, and each time I see it I wonder how you handle the end boards in a T&G situation. And also how you nail it.
Anyone care to clear that up?

If I was going to start in the middle for some reason I would uses a spline and reverse the direction.

If your opposite walls are not parallel something is going to be wedge shaped unless you are planning to correct the walls. You can split the difference or pick the wall it will show least and start on the other one.

 

[Snoonyb]

So it doesn't matter if t you nail thru the tongue or the groove?

You nail the top of the grove and the wide portion of the tongue, with the understanding that the angle of the nail entry is not 90 degrees, but closer to 45 degrees, which also resists de-lamination.

 

[slownsteady]

Thanks. I understand that the nail has to be set in a way that doesn't interfere with the next piece. Just wasn't sure if it was kosher to nail the tongue end.

 

[nealtw]

Thanks. I understand that the nail has to be set in a way that doesn't interfere with the next piece. Just wasn't sure if it was kosher to nail the tongue end.

It's always best to nail tongue side you can use a spline for a tongue to change direction.

plywood sub floor goes the other way so the tongue dosn't get dammaged.

 

[Snoonyb]

Thanks. I understand that the nail has to be set in a way that doesn't interfere with the next piece. Just wasn't sure if it was kosher to nail the tongue end.

You also adjust the pressure so that the nail is just set, keeping the head slightly buried,

Something not yet discussed, is how crowned joist are addressed.

When nailing the top of the grove the board can split if not held tight to the joist. Nailing the tongue can pull the board up creating a cup, which can eventually pull the fastener through the board, so I carry a bundle of cedar shims as well as a bundle of drywall shims.

The common excuse is eh the next board will pick it up, really.

In extreme cases I'll sister the joist with 2X3.

Should you elect to use a "spline" to change direction, some lumber yards still sell parting bead, I prefer to work the trade.