Redo small deck roof to Support Walk-on and Panels

[Snoonyb]

Anything you want to add to my last post?:hide:

The OP has referred to the building as being concrete.

Photo #2 of MSG #35 background is a CMU wall.

Is this at the site and is this a CMU building?

Despite the reluctance..............

I'm still of the mind to pull the existing roof structure and fascia off, remove the soffit material, using the existing rafters as ledgers, lag them into the house wall with the top 5" below the rafter/wall intersection.

The attic ventilation can also be addressed than as well.

 

[nealtw]

If he does want to redo it later it will still have to come down again, but I don't disagree. His choice.

 

[Snoonyb]

If he does want to redo it later it will still have to come down again, but I don't disagree. His choice.

And to a broader point, with a header height of 68", where is the access to this deck?

If the rafters are not butted too and hung from the support beam, what is the value of a limited panorama, usually enjoyed.

 

[nealtw]

And to a broader point, with a header height of 68", where is the access to this deck?

If the rafters are not butted too and hung from the support beam, what is the value of a limited panorama, usually enjoyed.

Strong argument for concrete deck. I wondered about the door too.

 

[Snoonyb]

Strong argument for concrete deck. I wondered about the door too.

Unfortunately, we're probably speculating beyond the OP's budget.

 

[tk3000]

OK then, I was expecting the the top of the window to be 82". So you are right that just won't work.
So now we are back to the mickey mouse stuff where we started.

Pull down the vinyl soffet and inspect the fascia and the liner behind it for rot and if you are happy with that install the hangers I posted earlier add more nails or screws between the fascia and liner.
On the out side add another 2x6 to the outside one to make that a beam and
Cut the railing out enough to install 2 treated 2x4 to each post to support the beam.
I would cover that with 5/8 construction grade plywood.
Plywood because OSB will swell up if or when it gets wet.
"H" clips are put on the edge of roof sheeting so the sheets don't bend independently when you walk on them. One clip in the middle between 2 joists.

I took a peek inside the soffits and at first it seems there is a primed/painted wood board there in good shape.

Looking up online, it seems that the abherration of the small flat roof on the small deck is similar to this:

The outside beam are not under the rafters (in my case there is not even proper metal hardware hanger support in the exterior part).

The exterior beam would have to be below the rafters in order to provide proper support. Using a 2x6 pressure treated lumber with notches coinciding with the position of the rafters as the following sketch:

-------- ------------- --------------- ------------- ------
| |
| |
----------------------------------------------------------------------

would help, so the rafter would be seating there inside the notches.

I also prefer plywood, I just happened to have some osb laying around. Yeah, I will probably buying 1/2" plywood for the sheathing.

 

[tk3000]

The OP has referred to the building as being concrete.

Photo #2 of MSG #35 background is a CMU wall.

Is this at the site and is this a CMU building?

Despite the reluctance..............

I'm still of the mind to pull the existing roof structure and fascia off, remove the soffit material, using the existing rafters as ledgers, lag them into the house wall with the top 5" below the rafter/wall intersection.

The attic ventilation can also be addressed than as well.

Yeah, the main house exterior walls are all made out of cmu.

In spite of not being a propery roof structure for sheathing and having very improper outside support beam, there is nothing there rotten or with signs of falling apart. With better reinforcement, it may endure safely for many years.

thks!

 

[tk3000]

If he does want to redo it later it will still have to come down again, but I don't disagree. His choice.

Yeah, nothing is eternal.. I know that this one is far from eternal, but I just want to make it much better now (even though it still is far from ideal)

 

[tk3000]

And to a broader point, with a header height of 68", where is the access to this deck?

If the rafters are not butted too and hung from the support beam, what is the value of a limited panorama, usually enjoyed.

A 2x6 beam would restrict the view too, and that's part of the reason to have notches on the beam.

I will post my pics of the deck and the door from the allseason room for the deck soon. The lower deck itself is well above grade/ground, but the door from the all season room is not; and there is a small section of concrete slab between the between the all season room door and the deck.

 

[Snoonyb]

A 2x6 beam would restrict the view too, and that's part of the reason to have notches on the beam.

Not any more than what is existing, however, "If the rafters are not butted too and hung from the support beam", which, depending upon the beam you employ will not further obstruct the view. To determine this you have only to review the patio standards you said were on line.

Adding tails to create an overhang is just a matter of connectors.

As for notching the beam, besides further limiting the view by the amount below the notch, you substantially compromise the beam, so unless you pay an eng., narrows the post spacing.

I will post my pics of the deck and the door from the allseason room for the deck soon. The lower deck itself is well above grade/ground, but the door from the all season room is not; and there is a small section of concrete slab between the between the all season room door and the deck.

Are you aware that the tread nose to head h eight is 6'8"?

Are you aware of Murphy's Law, and where, wouldn't, you like to be, if it did not, like you say it may.

Take the time to protect yourself, do the roof correctly.

 

[tk3000]

Not any more than what is existing, however, "If the rafters are not butted too and hung from the support beam", which, depending upon the beam you employ will not further obstruct the view. To determine this you have only to review the patio standards you said were on line.

Adding tails to create an overhang is just a matter of connectors.

As for notching the beam, besides further limiting the view by the amount below the notch, you substantially compromise the beam, so unless you pay an eng., narrows the post spacing.



Are you aware that the tread nose to head h eight is 6'8"?

Are you aware of Murphy's Law, and where, wouldn't, you like to be, if it did not, like you say it may.

Take the time to protect yourself, do the roof correctly.

At a slow pace the reinforcement project for this small roof has started. Firstly, by the use of a small hydraulic jack (bottle jack)+ 4x4 lumber an extra temporary support for the rafter is made (and note that the rafters are also given support by the other rafters by means of 2x6 noggings/blocks), as shown below:

So, at first I am simply installing proper rafter hangers instead of angle brackets that were installed before.

“ Adding tails to create an overhang is just a matter of connectors.” : you mean by adding small sister rafters (or extensions). Actually, I wanted to add a gutter there so a fascia board and a small overhang
would be useful.

“Are you aware that the tread nose to head h eight is 6'8"?” : not clear what you mean by “tread nose” here. Overall height from lower deck floor to rafters?

Below is another pic showing an opening for a door (currently boarded) and the a previous window that was sealed because of a bathroom (privacy issues I would assume).

But it is not clear for me how best approach the installation of two 2x4s and one 2x6 support beam for the rafters facing the posts.

Thks!

 

[nealtw]

The 2x6 on the outside should be doubled to make it a beam. just nailing another on the outside will do.
The posts should be directly under that two ply beam.Adding 2x4s to the outside of the post will make that work.
Nudging is solid blocking between joist in the center if the span is more than seven feet.

 

[Snoonyb]

A stairway is defined as a set of steps or passageway leading from one level to another.


50. HEADROOM. Section R311.7.2 IRC 2009 R311.7.2 Headroom. The minimum headroom in all parts of the stairway shall not be less than 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) measured vertically from the sloped line adjoining the tread nosing or from the floor surface of the landing or platform on that portion of the stairway.

 

[nealtw]

So to get the height needed to add a proper beam to the outside, you would have to remove the overhang of the house roof and put the ledger against the wall up high.
But then your roof will be higher than the addition next to it,

 

[nealtw]

Would it not be easier to just build a shed in the back yard to take these panels.

 

[Snoonyb]

Well, how about this hypothetical; The dwelling is a slab on grade with the deck "legally" added, (however, with a floor level of the deck, 14" above the floor level of the slab, as evidenced by the 68" from deck to window hdr.), whose only reasonable access is an,"over the river and through the woods", trip through another addition.

Compounding bad results, is just that.

I'd do the roof correctly, take the deck apart and lower it on a treated lumber panelized support system.

To maintain some level of architectural consistency.

 

[Snoonyb]

So to get the height needed to add a proper beam to the outside, you would have to remove the overhang of the house roof and put the ledger against the wall up high.
But then your roof will be higher than the addition next to it,

Actually what I wanted the OP to be aware of, is the eventuality, where a prospective buyer, asks for building permits, finds that there is none for the improvements and begins negotiating from there.

However, to no avail, because the OP appears to be so invested in the failed solar policy, that doing it over, is better than doing it right.

 

[tk3000]

Would it not be easier to just build a shed in the back yard to take these panels.

Actually, after so much fuss I decided to mount the solar panels elsewhere since this deck roof is sort of precarious even with the reinforcement. But, still, I want to make it better and will reinforce it. Besides there are also trees obstructing the the incidence of light there.

 

[tk3000]

Actually what I wanted the OP to be aware of, is the eventuality, where a prospective buyer, asks for building permits, finds that there is none for the improvements and begins negotiating from there.

However, to no avail, because the OP appears to be so invested in the failed solar policy, that doing it over, is better than doing it right.

First off, I have no intention to sell the property. 96% of people don't buy permits unless they are building something anew (therefore I am not alone). I still have to find someone who would ask for building permits (for what?) in order to buy a house? Moreover, I am not the one who build the roof for this deck.

 

[nealtw]

Actually, after so much fuss I decided to mount the solar panels elsewhere since this deck roof is sort of precarious even with the reinforcement. But, still, I want to make it better and will reinforce it. Besides there are also trees obstructing the the incidence of light there.

It looks like you have lots on your plate, when you get things under control come back to the roof over the addition. Just to make sure there are no problems there.