patio cover flashing

[slownsteady]

3. Install Rain Flashing
A.
Fasten rain flashing to the house wall or the house fascia board directly
using #10 screws every 6”.
B.
Fasten flashing to patio roof using #8 x 1/2" sheet metal screws at the roof
panels interloc
k.
C.
Overlap lengths of flashing at least 1” and fasten through to panel interlock.
D.
Caulk generously all along the attachment to the house

With these directions in hand, you have a good case for going to the contractor and asking him to make it right. Don't get tripped up in all the details in this thread, consider it all background info.

This makes a good case for all homeowners to research a product before they hire a contractor to install it. A proper set of expectations on both parties is the best way to stay happy.

 

[ricky01225]

these are directions and pictures of the duralum patio cover from there website. it says electrical is "not approved" for this? my contractor installed lights, ran electrial, and installed fan lights in mine...thoughts???

 

[nealtw]

Electrical is covered by code, they are just taking themselves out of the discussion by saying they don't approve it.

 

[Snoonyb]

these are directions and pictures of the duralum patio cover from there website. it says electrical is "not approved" for this? my contractor installed lights, ran electrial, and installed fan lights in mine...thoughts???

What the mfg. is referring to is the practice of drilling access holes and fixture termination points where a mounting box is recessed within the roll-formed beams, structurally weakening them.

Surface mounting lights and emt should not adversely affect the structure.

However, each of the beams or rafters has a design load and not upgrading those prior to installing a ceiling fan would be questionable. The exception would be spreading the load over two.

Do you have the final building and electrical permits in hand?

 

[ricky01225]

What the mfg. is referring to is the practice of drilling access holes and fixture termination points where a mounting box is recessed within the roll-formed beams, structurally weakening them.

Surface mounting lights and emt should not adversely affect the structure.

However, each of the beams or rafters has a design load and not upgrading those prior to installing a ceiling fan would be questionable. The exception would be spreading the load over two.

Do you have the final building and electrical permits in hand?

i was looking at non insulated patio cover instructions so im good on the electrical. the insulated instructions still required a flashing installed though. so i called duralum and asked them if they have flashing available for my patio cover and he said no. they only have it on non insulated patio covers. so i said well its in the instructions to install and he was shocked so he looked it up and said "your right but we never send flashing with these covers and we sell 30-40 a day I'll give you contractor one have him call me." Ive have called the contractor and left him a message. He needs to install this at no cost to me! i think with this and water proofing my stucco ill be find. Im getting cold feet on having someone rip off stucco to install a special flashing and then re-stucco it. Less penetration in my stucoo wall is the better i think....plus it only drips down below the patio cover when it rains heavy and the stucco gets soaked.

 

[Snoonyb]

Hopefully the contractor, at the urging of the mfg., will "elect", to not charge you, which he has every right too.

From post #32;"Stucco 1st and 2nd coats are a formulation of red label cement and does not absorb water, however the color coat or 3rd, because of the formulation, will absorb some water, and appear wet, but dries readily."

You can submit stucco to torrential rains for a prolonged period and where you then to cut a section you would be loath to find any evidence of absorption greater the 1/4"

You are free to apply an additional water proofing agent, however, you'll also need to reapply the same product on a regular and reoccurring basis, which means someone will need to walk on your cover ever 1-1/2 too 2yrs.

Again, there is not enough distance between the 2X architectural element and the cover to install a "Z" bar.

 

[nealtw]

Hopefully the contractor, at the urging of the mfg., will "elect", to not charge you, which he has every right too.

From post #32;"Stucco 1st and 2nd coats are a formulation of red label cement and does not absorb water, however the color coat or 3rd, because of the formulation, will absorb some water, and appear wet, but dries readily."

You can submit stucco to torrential rains for a prolonged period and where you then to cut a section you would be loath to find any evidence of absorption greater the 1/4"

You are free to apply an additional water proofing agent, however, you'll also need to reapply the same product on a regular and reoccurring basis, which means someone will need to walk on your cover ever 1-1/2 too 2yrs.

Again, there is not enough distance between the 2X architectural element and the cover to install a "Z" bar.

Red label cement, is that a brand name or is there something that can be looked up?

 

[Snoonyb]

Red label cement, is that a brand name or is there something that can be looked up?

In laymen's terms, it's plastic cement.

 

[nealtw]

In laymen's terms, it's plastic cement.

Yeah, that would be crazy glue.plastic cement

So I guess you are talking about some additive that may or may not be in the first two coats of stucco?

 

[Snoonyb]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Mfg-94-lb-Plastic-Cement-0010294000/100317737

See the red label?

 

[nealtw]

http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386

I am not seeing anything about waterproof?

 

[Snoonyb]

http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386

I am not seeing anything about waterproof?

Read back through the thred and note weather resistant.

You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.

 

[inspectorD]

http://www.sepulveda2.com/catalog_sepulveda/show_product_info.php?product=386

I am not seeing anything about waterproof?

Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
In this case a plastic modifier.

In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:

 

[nealtw]

Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
In this case a plastic modifier.

In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:

Plastic as in in pliable for work ability not water proofing.:trophy:

 

[nealtw]

Read back through the thred and note weather resistant.

You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.

I read that the first time, maybe you should go back and correct it.

 

[Snoonyb]

Think of it as a Latex modified thinset for tile, Additives help to resist the water.
In this case a plastic modifier.

In laymans terms they mixed redguard and mortar...you know , for us simple folks.:help:

Actually that is not the method I learned and have practiced for 40+yrs.

I learned the three stage, 17day process and it is based upon red label cement, plaster sand and lime.

Neal should know this, because red label cement is widely used in Canada.

ASTM C150 defines Portland cement as "hydraulic cement (cement that not only hardens by reacting with water but also forms a water-resistant product) produced by pulverizing clinkers which consist essentially of hydraulic calcium silicates, usually containing one or more of the forms of calcium sulphate as an inter ground addition.

 

[Snoonyb]

I read that the first time, maybe you should go back and correct it.

Sorry, no sale.

What you think I should correct, is something you interpreted, out of context.

 

[nealtw]

Sorry, no sale.

What you think I should correct, is something you interpreted, out of context.

I do believe if there was waterproof stucco, it would be advertised as such.

Correct me if you can

 

[inspectorD]

I do believe if there was waterproof stucco, it would be advertised as such.

Correct me if you can

It isn't waterproof.. resistant yes. And I fully understand stucco and its pitfalls. If there is any crack,, you have water penetration. The original issue could possibly not even be with the stucco itself, but with a window as mentioned
.... or a small crack directly above that aesthetic bump out.

Lets keep the contest of who is better to a minimum fellas. I think i'm always right...:rofl: Look how that turned out.

Always learnin...

 

[nealtw]

Stucco is known to be a weather resistant building finish, but it is part of a system. In order for the wall to resist water penetration effectively, the system must be properly designed and detailed, then built according to plans.

The main purpose of building paper is to keep water from contacting the substrate and structural support members—very commonly sheathing like plywood or oriented strand board (OSB and wood or metal studs—so that these materials stay dry. Metal can rust and wood can rot. Also, wood is prone to expand and contract with changes in moisture, so it’s essential to keep sheathing dry to provide the plaster with a sound substrate. Minimizing the changes in moisture minimizes the stresses that might be placed on plaster from behind. In addition to structural considerations, excess moisture within a wall creates a potential for mold or mildew inside buildings.

Building paper prevents moisture-related problems in stucco walls. Several industry documents, such as PCA’s Portland Cement Plaster/Stucco Manual, EB049, ACI’s Guide to Portland Cement-Based Plaster, and building codes across the country, recommend two layers of paper. During construction, paper can be damaged. Two layers of paper provide greater assurance that water won’t get to the sheathing or support members. Paper should be lapped like siding, meaning that upper layers are placed over lower layers. This facilitates drainage toward the outside. Where the edges of paper-backed lath meet, connections should be lath-to-lath and paper-to-paper.

Building paper should comply with the current requirements of UU-B-790a, Federal Specifications for Building Paper, Vegetable Fiber (Kraft, Waterproofed, Water Repellent, and Fire Resistant). This specification differentiates weather resistive Kraft papers by types, grades, and styles. Grade D is a water-vapor permeable paper. Grade D paper with a water resistance of 60 minutes (or more) works well for stucco applications, and is often preferred to Grade D paper having the minimum 10-minute resistance required by UU-B-790a.

This argument is just nonsense that takes the discussion away from the fact that there are now holes in the last line of defense (the paper)