I recently purchased a house in Eastern TN. It has a deck out back. 5 6x6 posts plus a ledger board on the house. I'll try to post some pics. Looks to me that 3 posts are part of an original deck build. Then they added another section with 2 new posts. I was thinking an easy fix for the bowing/cracked posts (2 in the middle with metal wrapped around them) would be to put a treated 2x8 on both sides of the posts (all 5 posts) and attach them to the posts using lag bolts. I haven't dug down yet to see how the posts are in the ground (I believe just concreted in). I'd rather not to replace the posts as that seems like more work. But since my new 2x8's will be sitting on the ground (or top of concrete that holds the posts) is that going to provide enough support? Again, this is how I bought the place, inspector didn't call anything out except for some missing brackets on the joists (which I plan to install).
Can I Sandwich some Treated 2x8 to my bowed/cracking 6x6 deck support posts?
- Thread starter hotwls13
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What is the purpose of the metal around the posts? If the posts are embedded in concrete, as mine are in my builder built deck, the pressure treated wood is going to rot out in the concrete area. I helped my neighbor repair his by cutting the rotted bottom of each one, one by one and pouring concrete to bring it up do grade with a galvanized post anchor attached to the cut bottom of the post. Before you go to the trouble of wrapping them in 2x stock dig down and see what the conditions are like below grade, especially at the the footer. IMHO the best way to install wood posts it to have the footer come up to above grade and attach the post with a post anchor.
The checking (cracks) in the posts isn't really an issue. If I were going to wrap the posts with 2x stock, I'd through bolt it with 5/8" hex head bolts with washers on both sides and not bother with lag bolts.
Retrofit Post Anchor https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-G185-Post-Base-Common-6-in-Actual-5-in/3044772
The checking (cracks) in the posts isn't really an issue. If I were going to wrap the posts with 2x stock, I'd through bolt it with 5/8" hex head bolts with washers on both sides and not bother with lag bolts.
Retrofit Post Anchor https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Steel-G185-Post-Base-Common-6-in-Actual-5-in/3044772
I’m not sure why they put the metal on the posts. It’s only on the 2 that are bowing. And I meant “through bolts with washers” when I said lag bolts. I agree the proper way to do posts is with brackets in concrete that keeps the posts above grade. I just had a patio built at my other house and had the footers/brackets done before building the patio cover. Just trying to do the least work/$$ that is required to make it safe
Most people here wrap poles like that to keep critters from climbing them.
I agree before you do anything you need to see what’s going on below grade. Adding strength above grade won’t do much if they are failing below.
Can’t tell if it is the photos or are the posts curved that much?
What’s the top surface of the deck like?
My other concern is how good is the deck attached to the ledger.
I agree before you do anything you need to see what’s going on below grade. Adding strength above grade won’t do much if they are failing below.
Can’t tell if it is the photos or are the posts curved that much?
What’s the top surface of the deck like?
My other concern is how good is the deck attached to the ledger.
I haven't seen that before. It would be of limited value since they could just climb the stairs.
One other concern about your deck is the lack of Z or Y bracing on the posts. That deck is certainly not up to current code, and could rock quite easily. I'd look to add some bracing as part of your updates. Deck codes have been stiffened and written in blood. Every code upgrade was done because of a failure that caused injuries or death. Even if your local codes haven't been updated, I'd look to add the bracing.
As for adding bracing, would 45degree 4x4 posts work?
this deck doesn’t have stairs (I plan to add them) but my thought as far as critters, I would think if that was the goal they would wrap all the posts.
and attaching the deck to the ledger board, they have through bolts between floors (into framing of the house). It’s not nearly as many as I recently had done to my other patio cover. On the new one we did lag bolts into studs every 16”.
this deck doesn’t have stairs (I plan to add them) but my thought as far as critters, I would think if that was the goal they would wrap all the posts.
and attaching the deck to the ledger board, they have through bolts between floors (into framing of the house). It’s not nearly as many as I recently had done to my other patio cover. On the new one we did lag bolts into studs every 16”.
Z bracing is 2x8's running from the base of one post to the top of the adjacent post. Y bracing is 4x4's nearer the top of the post. For Z, I'd go from the top of the outer posts to the bottom of the middle posts to stiffen the deck. In my town with an attached deck Z bracing is/was code when my deck was built. The second article below shows X bracing, I didn't read the whole thing to see if that was just for free standing decks or attached decks as well. Y bracing is nice because it gets the braces up out of view when you have a walkout below the deck.
Here are few articles on the subject: Deck Construction: Best Practices- Building Advisor
Deck Design Details https://www.tualatinoregon.gov/site...tachments/building/page/3978/deck_details.pdf
Oh yeah, I could only do Y bracing. I don't want the below the deck blocked due to it being a walk-out basement etc. I could do some X bracing on one side where there are no windows etc.
