Recent content by BobStrauss

Great question! You're right, the switch was bad. Wasn't getting any power out of it, but certainly had power going in. I swapped it out for a different one and now I'm back and running. Thanks for helping a noob out!

Both switches get power from the incoming black. The red wire from the dimmer switch ties to the red wire of the 14/3 romex. The other black wire on the fan ties to the black wire of the 14/3 romex.

Yes, basically that’s the same arrangement. The photos for that project were of my living room, whereas this thread is about my master bedroom. Both rooms follow the same general pattern, however: two switches from the wall and the wiring (one 14/3 romex).

Here are some pics of the wiring at the switch. The left switch is the dimmer for the light. It has a RED that's connected to the RED of the 14/3 Romex, a BLACK that's in a wire nut with three others, then ground to ground, WHITE to WHITES. The right switch is the fan control. It has one BLACK...

The white neutrals are all wired nutted together well, so that doesn’t seem to be an issue. One potential clue: the 3/1 romex has a hot black AND red when the fan control switch is on. However, when just the light switch is on, the red is not hot. Seems as if the only wire that’s hot is the...

Years ago I had a ceiling light fan combo that ran on two different wall switches - one for the fan and one for the light. Following advice on this forum, I removed the light kit and installed recessed cans instead. I used the fan as a junction box, connecting the can light black to the red wire...

That screw doesn't loosen the door, it just rolls up and down to adjust the way it points at the other door. It has no effect on loosening the hinge or how far the door sits out from the frame.

Just painted some old builder grade cabinets as part of a minor kitchen reno. Put back on the original hinges and noticed the left door of this cabinet tucks in at the bottom, leaning out along the top. Notice how the bottom of the door touches the frame, but the top does not. The right door...

What do you mean by reverse the reds? Use the one with the stripe instead of the solid?

Oh, and yes, it's a single pole. All the switches in this box are single pole.

Still having troubles. Pigtailed the incoming hot (what was directly going to the left side of the existing switch) to the black on the new switch as well. Ran the red wire on the new switch to the black wire going to the light. Ran the neutrals together. Not working. Everything else...

I have an electric box above my kitchen sink for a pendant light (left switch on top), garbage disposal (left switch on bottom), and now I'd like to tie in undercabinet lighting (right switch not yet installed). Here is the new switch I'd like to tie in on the right. It will run to my AC...

The switches are already wired. But to the existing fixture is 14/2. Do I wire up the new recessed cans like I did last time using the 14/2? Existing 14/2 to can, then black-black white-white ground-ground to each one thereafter?

BUMP. I'm planning on a similar project, but this time there are TWO switches - a 3-way setup. Still, the cable that runs to the existing fixture is 14/2 romex. Will I be able to wire in the new recessed cans just the same as before?

I realize there's no "ON" switch necessarily in a three-way, but that isn't the issue. The issue is that if it's "ON" in the garage, the light is on regardless and won't flip off in the kitchen. If it's "OFF" in the garage though, it will flip on and off from the kitchen, but in the...