Recent content by Fireguy5674

Correct. Just take the nut off the top with a wrench and wiggle the white nylon part out. Under it you will find the rubber seal with a spring under it. You can then buy a kit with the stem, seal and spring included. I would change both sides while you are at it. They are not expensive and...

I agree with Bud, and you can probably find the above referenced training online. Sit down at the computer and see how they want it done and your trained. You probably won't get a certificate, but you will have the knowledge,

Put your shop vac on the discharge end of the drain piping and seal it with a rag or something similar. The clog is generally a gelatinous material from bacteria and will suck out through the drainpipe.

I'm in Central Illinois. Around here the newer ground rod connection clamps are usually placed 6 to 10" inches below ground level. The wire is protected by PVC conduit. Keeps the lawn mowers etc. from damaging the grounding system.

Ground rods are usually covered. The clue to look for is a bare copper wire or a small conduit running to the ground under your meter box or main panel which goes to a buried ground rod.

The other thing to check is the screws in the upper hinge. I have seen those loosen enough to allow the door to sag just slightly. That will cause the door bolt to just miss the hole in the latch plate as it appears yours is doing. Just another thing to check. A little tweek here and another...

It is possible it is a vent problem, but not near as likely as a plug in the pipe from lint etc. from the washing machine. Increasing the holding capacity of the drain might work for a while but odds are the flow capacity of the drain will continue to decrease as the plug gets worse. First...

Also, the galvanized pipe was showing signs of leaking at the cast tee. Anytime I run into things like that, unless they look pristine, they get replaced. Very likely that is not in good shape and what Snoonyb says.

Well, I'd come help, but I just finished helping a buddy move a flue pipe and between the attic and the roof I was about crippled the day after I did that. So, by the time I heal up and drive to Georgia, you will be done. 😁

I will almost guarantee you will have to cut the nipple going into the cast tee out. Cdestuck is right. Cut the pipe from the inside toward the threads until you start to see the female threads in the tee. Three places should be enough. Cut most of the excess pipe outside the tee off. I use...

The answer to your question above about how the chrome trap tail is attached to the galvanized pipe. "Normally" there is a nut with a square rubber ring behind that seals the smooth trap tail to the end of the pipe. Basically, a trap adapter for metal pipe. It is difficult to see from your...

No Problem. Let us know how it goes.

You should be able to take the PVC trap off of the chrome without any problem. I believe that was what you replaced after moving in. I don't think you ever got through the trap with your snake. Your small snake should be perfect for cleaning that small straight piece. Turn it in about 3" and...

This Is the same 1&1/2" size pipe that you have going from your trap to your 2" cast iron. It was full of "crude" but had also rotted out along the entire bottom. What I would do with your problem if I was there would be to remove everything from the trap to the tee and replace it with PVC. A...

First, your drain under the cabinet is 2" cast iron. Second, if your washer drain is basically next to the kitchen drain, maybe roughly 2 or 3 feet away, then I bet the two drains meet right under the floor below the sink. The easiest thing you can try is to remove the trap from the drain...