Re-laminating kitchen countertops

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Other than it is tricky to hold it square with the base flat against the surface when routering that front edge, no.

So, in what order should I apply and router the 3 parts (top, side, angle)?
 
Do all your sanding first, being carful to not round over the 45's. Fit and tape all the pieces before you apply the contact cement. Mask off the cabinets and invest in a laminate roller.
 
Unless you are really wedded to the 45-degree bevel covered in laminate, I'd still recommend starting over with new underlayment and doing a more traditional edge or banding it in wood. I suspect that beveled piece done by a DIYer is going to be a problem to get right and to stay affixed to the laminate underneath.
 
Unless you are really wedded to the 45-degree bevel covered in laminate, I'd still recommend starting over with new underlayment and doing a more traditional edge or banding it in wood. I suspect that beveled piece done by a DIYer is going to be a problem to get right and to stay affixed to the laminate underneath.

That does concern me, and I'm going to look into all options thoroughly before deciding what to do.

If I do choose to re-apply, I want to see if I can get a hold of a spare piece of beveled counter and practice first.
 
With patience and a household iron you can remove the old.
The good thing about starting with the smallest bits is if it fails you can go to plan B, you just need a plan B
 
With patience and a household iron you can remove the old.
The good thing about starting with the smallest bits is if it fails you can go to plan B, you just need a plan B

Just to be sure I understand, you're saying that with a household iron that I can remove the current laminate?

Could I also remove the current bevel trim, too? If so, I may be better off removing both the laminate top and bevel trim as the other poster recommended. I could then either put on a flat edge or add and cut a pre-made matching bevel trim.
 
The process is time consuming and a putty knife helps.

The down side to removing the old, is the lumpy adhesive residue. on the larger flat surfaces you'll nee some long shims, similar to those shown in the video.
 
Once the trim is off the bevel you'll have a better Idea of from what its made.
 
I don’t know where you live and trust me I’m the guy that will try anything once to save a few bucks and say I did it, but if it was mine I would pull the counter top take it to the local place that makes them for everyone in town and have them recover it of if it was cheaper make new.

Years ago we wanted to make the office look newer but new desks were out of the question so we made all new plywood tops with an edge that hung over the old top and took them in and had them done with a bevel edge just like you have. They were really pretty cheap to do and the office looked great. For me it is a job I would leave to the pros.

I can hardly believe I just typed that. :eek:
 
Making new isn't hard, I've done it several times. I think any money you save trying to reuse the old ones will be eaten up in the time required to reuse them. If they were a straight run or just an L without a peninsula I'd consider using stock post-form counters from the home center. The peninsula complicates the use of post-form.
 
Just to be sure I understand, you're saying that with a household iron that I can remove the current laminate?

Could I also remove the current bevel trim, too? If so, I may be better off removing both the laminate top and bevel trim as the other poster recommended. I could then either put on a flat edge or add and cut a pre-made matching bevel trim.

Your front edge is not like the one in the video as the one in the video was factory made, so it is hard to say how yours was built but no if your was glued on like in the video it will be a different glue.
 
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