ceiling wood plank installation question

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Snoonyb: i'm using this stuff from Lowes. I plan to paint it after they are installed.

"you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex"

can you briefly explain how do I do this? Sorry, this is the first time i'm tackling something like this.
 
Snoonyb said:
CAN WE ALL SLOW THIS DOWN AND GET BACK TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION?

This was my original response which went BALLISTIC FROM THERE;"The material is likely cellotex which is an insulation material used in your roof configuration.

Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex."

T&G is not 1/4" material but is 3/4" material and can successfully be placed over a drywall or not based upon if it is 1X6 T&G which will bridge the seams in the cellotex without difficulty resulting is an appropriate finished product, however you have to address the whole story from the get-go.
Click to expand...

You feeling left out there Pookie? Frankly, much like the OP, I didn't understand what you were talking about....bridging the whaat? As for t&g not coming in 1/4"...you're wrong there. I believe he's talking about bead board planks which are 1/4" and are t&g.
 
beachguy005 said:
You feeling left out there Pookie? Frankly, much like the OP, I didn't understand what you were talking about....bridging the whaat? As for t&g not coming in 1/4"...you're wrong there. I believe he's talking about bead board planks which are 1/4" and are t&g.
Click to expand...

I'll explain it to you, when you, if you can, get away from editing the quotes.
 
tonester said:
Snoonyb: i'm using this stuff from Lowes. I plan to paint it after they are installed.

"you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex"

can you briefly explain how do I do this? Sorry, this is the first time i'm tackling something like this.
Click to expand...

What stuff from LOWES?
 
beachguy005 said:
Hmmm, another thing you're saying I don't understand. How was I "editing the quotes"?
Click to expand...

Please take note of the "
", which appears before and after a QUOTE, when a comment is QUOTED, and not cut and pasted, which is in effect, editing.

Here's another;

Mine;
Snoonyb said:
The material is likely cellotex which is an insulation material used in your roof configuration.

Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex.
Click to expand...

Your QUOTE;
Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex."

In another you mentioned "bridging the wheat", something I've never said, and alluding to both the OP and you, not understanding.
Click to expand...
 
tonester said:
sorry i forgot the link earlier. I'm using these wood planks that I got from Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_304510-17587-PNVG0802_1z0ufh0__?productId=3056263&pl=1
Click to expand...

Thank you, that clears it up.

Regarding applying 1/4" or 3/8" drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex.
This is a method of bridging inherent deformities in the surface of the cellotex which can occur in cellotex, naturally from aging or from the removal of the acoustic material.

However, if you feel, and you are there, that the surface is stable and that the seams can successfully be bridged without some minor filling, than proceed.

Some steps are prudent for aesthetics and some are not necessary and simply time consuming.
 
I see a couple problems here, 3x4 rafters are pretty light for carrying much more weight.
At 30 on center anything light weight may sag.
Glueing to this insulation board dosn't sound like an option as it would likely fail if too much weight was added to it.
Perhaps unvented soffet should be looked at, light weight eazy to install and white already.
 
Snoonyb said:
Please take note of the "
", which appears before and after a QUOTE, when a comment is QUOTED, and not cut and pasted, which is in effect, editing.

Here's another;

Mine;


Your QUOTE;
Any material you use will need an additional molding attached to the rafters to keep it in place, so your plan is not lost, you'll need to install 1/4" or 3/8"
drywall to bridge the seams in the cellotex."

In another you mentioned "bridging the wheat", something I've never said, and alluding to both the OP and you, not understanding.
Click to expand...



I guess you would be the one guilty of editing the quote. I never said bridging the wheat. I said bridging the whaat. A play on ...Say whaat! or You want to do whaat?
But clearly you can't read.
Click to expand...
 
nealtw said:
I see a couple problems here, 3x4 rafters are pretty light for carrying much more weight.
At 30 on center anything light weight may sag.
Glueing to this insulation board dosn't sound like an option as it would likely fail if too much weight was added to it.
Perhaps unvented soffet should be looked at, light weight eazy to install and white already.
Click to expand...

I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.

I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?

this is a photo of the giant 6x11 piece of lumber that is supporting the 3x4 in the middle of the room.
yZpFDH.jpg
 
tonester said:
I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.

I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be concerned with that little amount of additional weight, in part because the acoustic material you are removing will amt. to about 20%, by volume, of what you are adding.

The packaged material should have their weight listed on the PKG., total the weight, divide by 400sq.ft. and the result will be the weight you are adding per square ft.

Structurally, it's defined as dead load.
 
Last edited:
tonester said:
I never heard of unvented soffits before. They do look like something that might work. I already have all the wood plank materials purchased and delivered and unfortunately I might be stuck with the wood plank options.

I see your concern about the 3x4 rafters being not strong enough to carry the extra weights. My room is about 20x20. The 3x4 rafters spans the entire room but they are also supported midway by a giant 6x11. Is there a creative solution to add some perpendicular spans between the new furring strips so the wood planks can have something to attach to at their midpoints?

this is a photo of the giant 6x11 piece of lumber that is supporting the 3x4 in the middle of the room.
yZpFDH.jpg
Click to expand...
The beam is great news. You have the product now, cut a peice that would fit in the biggest space set it on blocks simulating how it will be installed and see just how stiff it is, you will have to be the judge to whether it can work.
 
If you have something constructive to add to this thread, please do. If you are intent on bickering, please use the private message system. We're here to offer help not discourage folks trying to solve problems.

The thread has been edited.

Thank-you

Tom
 
oldognewtrick said:
If you have something constructive to add to this thread, please do. If you are intent on bickering, please use the private message system. We're here to offer help not discourage folks trying to solve problems.

The thread has been edited.

Thank-you

Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks, however, the private message system appears to be a secret.

On pg. 3 you'll find the origination.
 
If you wish to send a private message, simply click on the members name you wish to message. Follow the prompts.
 
oldognewtrick said:
If you wish to send a private message, simply click on the members name you wish to message. Follow the prompts.
Click to expand...

Thank again.

Although I'll more than likely not respond, because I take responsibility for my actions, at face value, in public and fear not.
 
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