Installing nail on french door and window
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nealtw
Contractor retired
I don't think that is a problem
Understood. It's why I only use one and have no reason to hide from any one.
I didn't comment on the "jack stud", which is an east coast terminology for the framing member that is placed next to the king stud and below the header.
The west coast term for that member, is trimmer, as in trimming the load.
Here the double trimmer is required for openings 6' and greater and double king studs are not required.
There is an evolution for how this became a requirement, and builders did this to themselves, kinda like shooting yourself in the foot.
Often people will interpret the header size as a prerequisite for the double trimmer requirement.
As a point of clarification, you could have posted some photos of the framing alone.
nealtw
Contractor retired
terminology is all about where you are. We support headers with criples and jack studs are the shorts under the window.
I think you will find that code everywhere is two each end for 5ft and then the engineers go nuts from there.
We just did a room addition and the header was 6 ft wide and the beam used 6"x10" over a load bearing wall on a single jack stud. Engineer approved and city inspected.
Snoonyb,
I think you mentioned this as a better choice. I have used it before. I think you are correct. Since its not a shear wall (no plywood behind), its much stronger. Is that what you were referring to?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-27-in-x-8-ft-Steel-Lath-2-5-METAL-LATH/202093395
Snoonyb,
I think you mentioned this as a better choice. I have used it before. I think you are correct. Since its not a shear wall (no plywood behind), its much stronger. Is that what you were referring to?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-27-in-x-8-ft-Steel-Lath-2-5-METAL-LATH/202093395
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nealtw
Contractor retired
If there is an engineer on site, the city just leaves the beams and bearing up to him. We installed a beam today 5 1/2 x 9 1/4 by 78" , it has 8 jack studs. He is the guy that figures out the load. We have times when there just isn't room for all the studs and the city just asks for an engineers report on that.
In most U.S. municipalities, in situations where a structural engineer is required, those calcs. must be completed prior to applying for the permit and the plans submitted, with that firms wet stamp a-fixed.
Snoonyb,
I think you mentioned this as a better choice. I have used it before. I think you are correct. Since its not a shear wall (no plywood behind), its much stronger. Is that what you were referring to?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-27-in-x-8-ft-Steel-Lath-2-5-METAL-LATH/202093395[/QUOTE]
No. Yet in some cases this product, "expanded metal lath" is used for under shots and another version, "rib lath" is used for the underside of balconies and mezzanines.
This is the product;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-28-in-x-104-in-Single-Paper-Welded-Wire-Lath-60101/202094337
Here, cripples occur between the header and top plate, the header and the window sil, and the window sil and the bottom plate and constitute a trimmer.
In windows where the callout is less than 6', the header and sil span between the two king studs and the trimmer is comprised of three pieces, a cripple above the header, between the header and sil which is also adjusted for the window fit, and a cripple between the sil and bottom plate.
When the callout is 6' and larger a full length trimmer is installed between the header and the bottom plate and the rest is completed as above.
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nealtw
Contractor retired
Call out?
We see the trimmer system on TV all the time and it is not what we do for a few reasons.
The ply wood is left out of the header beacuse if the header is wet when it drys something has to crack as it shrinks.
The blocks above the header will hide the shrinkage of the header.
You may have noticed some houses crackle on season change.
We always have the header at the top of the wall so when shrinkage becomes noticeable it is shimmed, shims directly below the joists or rafters above.
This also makes it easy for the framers too as we just count up all the jack stud or criples as we call them and cut enough for whole floor.
As the header does not match our 2x6 walls we install a top sill also.
Your sill extending into the trimmer just adds more crush factor (more chance of settling)
2 X 5, 3 X 4, 5 X 2, 6 X 4 etc.,etc.
We see the trimmer system on TV all the time and it is not what we do for a few reasons.
The ply wood is left out of the header beacuse if the header is wet when it drys something has to crack as it shrinks.[/QUOTE]
We seldom use built-up headers.
We use dimensional lumber for headers; 4X, 6X, because it is cheaper in both material cost and labor.
The blocks above the header will hide the shrinkage of the header.[/QUOTE]
Kiln dried lumber shrinks very little, and over a long period.
You may have noticed some houses crackle on season change.[/QUOTE]
Have never noticed. So it may be regional.
We always have the header at the top of the wall so when shrinkage becomes noticeable it is shimmed, shims directly below the joists or rafters above.[/QUOTE]
We fit and tight nail, no shims except at door frames.
So, if you have a stud wall composed of 96" studs and the top of all of the windows and doors are aligned at 6'8" above the floor, what is the header size?
This also makes it easy for the framers too as we just count up all the jack stud or criples as we call them and cut enough for whole floor.
As the header does not match our 2x6 walls we install a top sill also.[/QUOTE]
That's a lot of extra work.
Your sill extending into the trimmer just adds more crush factor (more chance of settling)[/QUOTE]
Tight fit takes care of that.
nealtw
Contractor retired
A standard header is 2 2x10s, same as floor joists, less selection of lumber on the job. From time to time engineers do what they do.
As far as more work, put it this way.
If we have a floor ready to put walls up, we have a three man crew. We take (one day) to lay out all the walls top and bottom plates layed out in place on the floor, All headers cut and labeled
Jack studs or criples all cut and nailed to king studs as required, corner Ls and interior door doubles are nailed up
Sills and lower jacks are cut and labeled for all doors and windows
waterscreen paper and blueskin is prepped for all the windows and doors
On the second day we build and stand walls and level and brace it ready for floor joists above
That would be house about 2000 sq ft
With the impending earthquake we a sure to get
we often have to block every joint on the plywood sheeting and then have to drill a hole so every stud bay is vented.
Our joist material is dry but depending on how long it has been stored in the rain some can be 3/8" taller than the rest.
We use wet lumber so that it is easy to straighten, we hate lumber that we get in Aug as it is impossible to work which does slow us down.
Most of the time we are working in the rain.
As far as more work, put it this way.
If we have a floor ready to put walls up, we have a three man crew. We take (one day) to lay out all the walls top and bottom plates layed out in place on the floor, All headers cut and labeled
Jack studs or criples all cut and nailed to king studs as required, corner Ls and interior door doubles are nailed up
Sills and lower jacks are cut and labeled for all doors and windows
waterscreen paper and blueskin is prepped for all the windows and doors
On the second day we build and stand walls and level and brace it ready for floor joists above
That would be house about 2000 sq ft
With the impending earthquake we a sure to get
we often have to block every joint on the plywood sheeting and then have to drill a hole so every stud bay is vented.Our joist material is dry but depending on how long it has been stored in the rain some can be 3/8" taller than the rest.
We use wet lumber so that it is easy to straighten, we hate lumber that we get in Aug as it is impossible to work which does slow us down.
Most of the time we are working in the rain.
What you have described is an individual.
When I do an individual, either standard or custom, we start with the bare ground and an approved set of building plans and complete the bare, rough structure, ready for the other trades.
I say this with the understanding that the plumber has stubbed out above the floor.
As far as more work, put it this way.
If we have a floor ready to put walls up, we have a three man crew. We take (one day) to lay out all the walls top and bottom plates layed out in place on the floor, All headers cut and labeled
Jack studs or criples all cut and nailed to king studs as required, corner Ls and interior door doubles are nailed up
Sills and lower jacks are cut and labeled for all doors and windows
waterscreen paper and blueskin is prepped for all the windows and doors
On the second day we build and stand walls and level and brace it ready for floor joists above
That would be house about 2000 sq ft
With the impending earthquake we a sure to get
Our joist material is dry but depending on how long it has been stored in the rain some can be 3/8" taller than the rest.
We use wet lumber so that it is easy to straighten, we hate lumber that we get in Aug as it is impossible to work which does slow us down.
Most of the time we are working in the rain.
We are a 4 person crew and all are familiar with the plans, before a nail is driven, and the tasks are rotated.
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nealtw
Contractor retired
We start in mud and form the foundation a finish with it ready for the roofer, come back to install windows and back frame the basement after the furnace is in
So, where, on Earth, is this magical place with 101% humidity, where either they do not sell tarps, or no one knows what they are, and you are allowed to place a foundation in unconsolidated soil?
nealtw
Contractor retired
Ya they compact the soil or add gravel but there ia always mud around to wook in, we get alot of rain here, always tempted to build the roof first.
As most of the time we are working hillside so we have to watch out for mud sliding in the hole.
As most of the time we are working hillside so we have to watch out for mud sliding in the hole.
