Installing my dishwasher

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farmerjohn1324 said:
It's leaking from the part just above the nut on the hose. Not from the stem.

Why would the seal need to be replaced on a brand new hose?

There are no leaks going to the dishwasher side of things, so can the problem really be the stem?
Click to expand...

Braided hose has a washer for a seal, no tape needed.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V08DHGEzpSs[/ame]
 
It's a factory connection, designed by man, ERGO, it will fail, take it back and get another and better luck next time.
 
Pretty sure your leak starts right here. A compression fitting can't work if the tube is stressed to one side. It needs to be square to the connection. It might mean that your tube is too short and therefore pulled too tight. If you have some slack in there, you might be able to adjust the tube so that it loops more at the bottom; that will take the stress off the compression fitting.

Taking a second look; you might be able to reroute the tube over the top of the other valve, which would give you more slack.

FJ leaky tube.jpg
 
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In this video see the little metal tube that should be inside the end of that plastic pipe at about 150
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrqwfoLHkVk[/ame]
 
One last question.

Why does water pool at the bottom of the dishwasher after use?

It's almost an inch deep.

IMG_20161021_133833060.jpg
 
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Did you punch out the slug in the dishwasher drain fitting like I mentioned earlier? If not, the dishwasher will not drain.
 
Besides which, the DW is a model that does not have a discharge backflow preventer.
 
Drill a new hole at the top of the cabinet wall as close to the counter top as possible and reroute the drain hose (1) up through that hole. This will give you the high loop that you need and make more room in the cabinet. Bonus points if you move the supply tube (2) back to the now-empty hole where the drain used to go. Double Bonus points if you drill a new hole for that one too - towards the back of the cabinet (much more room, less strain on the tube and less chance that it will get knocked loose by squeezing stuff under there).

FJ_undersink copy.jpg
 
I should get all the bonus points, however...

There's still a pool of water after the dishwasher runs.

IMG_20161029_213439146.jpg

IMG_20161029_213501131.jpg

IMG_20161029_213512598.jpg
 
Did you notice the cabinet entry point of all the examples in the link I sent you? This is the general practice and you pull the discharge hose into the sink cabinet, instead of stuffing it back into the DW cabinet.

The residual backflow you are experiencing may be the result the siphoning from the method you used.
 
Snoonyb said:
Did you notice the cabinet entry point of all the examples in the link I sent you? This is the general practice and you pull the discharge hose into the sink cabinet, instead of stuffing it back into the DW cabinet.

The residual backflow you are experiencing may be the result the siphoning from the method you used.
Click to expand...


I did put in into the sink cabinet.

Maybe next time, there won't be water, magically, but I doubt it.

Any other guesses what it could be if all the piping looks good?

I should watch it in action, but I'm too lazy to do that.
 
"I should watch it in action, but I'm too lazy to do that."

With all these good folks trying to help you out, you should really reconsider that attitude.
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
I'm too lazy to do that.
Click to expand...

Sorry but that is not a problem we can fix. In this world you either do whatever it takes yourself, you pay for someone else to do that for you, or you live with the problem toy;re refusing to address correctly along with all the other ensuing problems that will cause.

Most of the newer DW's gave the 'high loop' for the drain built in; you can see that where the drain hose is routed on the side of the machine. Adding an even higher loop will create back-pressure it's not designed to deal with. You only want one 'high loop' in that drain and then good drainage downstream from there.

Phil
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
I did put in into the sink cabinet.

Maybe next time, there won't be water, magically, but I doubt it.

Any other guesses what it could be if all the piping looks good?

I should watch it in action, but I'm too lazy to do that.
Click to expand...

Again, "Did you notice the cabinet entry point of all the examples in the link I sent you?"

It's in post #49.

They enter at the floor of the sink cabinet, not the top, then are looped, in an adroit loop, before attaching to the sink drain.

That adroit loop is the siphon break and prevents backflow.
 
Mastercarpenty said:
Sorry but that is not a problem we can fix. In this world you either do whatever it takes yourself, you pay for someone else to do that for you, or you live with the problem toy;re refusing to address correctly along with all the other ensuing problems that will cause.

Most of the newer DW's gave the 'high loop' for the drain built in; you can see that where the drain hose is routed on the side of the machine. Adding an even higher loop will create back-pressure it's not designed to deal with. You only want one 'high loop' in that drain and then good drainage downstream from there.

Phil
Click to expand...

Some models have both supply and discharge backflow devices, I believe MIELE is one.
 
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