nealtw
Contractor retired
Usually I can build a picture from the thousand words, but not today:rofl::rofl:
Fridge cabinet installation
- Thread starter vinny186
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Usually I can build a picture from the thousand words, but not today:rofl::rofl:
nealtw
Contractor retired
Yup you are right someone should do up a test and load that cupboard until it fails.
Keep in mind that the bottom is glued and pin nailed and may or may not be in a dado. and will fail long before you get to 100 lbs. Do you really think the wood or screw will fail with 12 lbs of shear.:nono:
One of two things happen with the fridge topper cabinet. One is it is too high to use so you keep chips and bread up there some cereal also. The second thing they get used for is they are too high to get used so you fill it full of that second set of dishes you had to have and never use along with a couple stacks of cast iron frying pans you dont use. The real junk gets crammed in on top of the fridge in the crack till it falls behind.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Mine has all the paper work that came with appliances.:thbup:
Back to the question; how many screws with 1/2" penetration?
!2lb. of shear in 1-1/2 thread of a wood screw, really?
nealtw
Contractor retired
asked and answered. 4 in the front behind the hinges and 4 near the back.
as the back ones will also have a cupboard on the other side of the gable the screw could be 2 inches but for the sake of argument I will stay with 1" screws
and say that 8 screws will provide more shear strength than the floor can carry.
We can look up the shear strength of the screw and as far as the the wood I would point you to
http://www.widgetco.com/shelf-pins
And in fact if all other cupboards are attached to the back wall and the gables go to the floor, the cupboard could be held up with pins, similar to the shelf pins. As there will be no pull out action to consider.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Not enough words....:rofl:
nealtw
Contractor retired
It takes skill to write a picture.
"And in fact if all other cupboards are attached to the back wall and the gables go to the floor, the cupboard could be held up with pins, similar to the shelf pins. As there will be no pull out action to consider."
The pre-finished end panels go to the floor, so besides the screws into the cabinet and the screws into the end panels, you would also dowel into the end panels and find or contrive some sort of pin for that. interesting.
The pre-finished end panels go to the floor, so besides the screws into the cabinet and the screws into the end panels, you would also dowel into the end panels and find or contrive some sort of pin for that. interesting.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Are you still at it. Wrap you head around the fact that I can by drawer slides rated up to 200 lbs and you mount them with 8 #6 x 1/2" screws so there is no question everything will stay together just fine.
So, you dowel dwr. slides into a refer. decorative end panel?
I'm just trying to get you to clarify how cumbersome your method really is, for the benefit of others.
My fridge is 32 1/2" wide and my fridge cabinet is 33" so I decided to add 1/2" of cabinet filler strips on both sides of the cabinet.
Because I'm installing this myself, I need to secure the other end panel to the wall and/or the other end panel then raise the cabinet into place.
Would you guys attach the filler strips before or after the cabinet is in place?
Because I'm installing this myself, I need to secure the other end panel to the wall and/or the other end panel then raise the cabinet into place.
Would you guys attach the filler strips before or after the cabinet is in place?
To keep the faceframe of the cabinet tight to both decorative end panels only use a filler that will bring the side of the upper flush with the side of the faceframe, which in modulars is 1/8", any more then requires a scribe mold to bridge the gap between the faceframe of the upper and both end panels.
Add the filler before you install the upper and a strip at both the top and bottom of the sides and you'll have no deflection when you nail at the top of the end panels.
Add the filler before you install the upper and a strip at both the top and bottom of the sides and you'll have no deflection when you nail at the top of the end panels.
