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Old 08-26-2009, 04:18 PM  
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Default Manufactured Home - vaulted ceiling, no vapor barrier, scanty insulation

Hi. I have a 32 foot wide manufactured home with drywall throughout. The ceilings are vaulted using scissor trusses. 6" construction.

The home is 9 years old.

We found mold on the outside of the top of the gable ends under the siding we are replacing. After pulling of the sheathing to replace the molded sheathing, we found that the attic has no vapor barrier. The roof sheathing is moldy (black.) The insulation has shifted, leaving bare areas on the drywall. The attic had no venting whatsoever. The soffit vents were blind. Insulation is blown fiberglass, only to the top of the ceiling joists, where there is any insulation at all. The trusses are not energy trusses, so we really can't get a decent RV over the wall plate. We've had significant ice dams.

It's a mess. All sheathing is stapled with so many staples that its extremely time consuming to remove a sheet of chipboard.

The plan is to deal with the insulation, and re-roof with steel siding. We'll be bringing the overhang out from 5 1/2 inches to 24 inches as well.

I can't do this myself (widow), and I've hired a good friend to help me. I have other good friends that can and do give advice as well.

We have a few options to consider. You may well have other and better options to suggest. With any option, we will be installing ridge venting along the entire roof.

#1. Paint interior of ceiling with vapor barrier paint. Open up strips between the joists to completely fill the available space in the present attic, with blown fiberglass. Nail 2x4s on top of the existing roof, over the trusses, 2" of pink styrofoam, leaving 1 1/2" for airflow over the foam.

#2. Leave insulation and roof as is, allowing the present attic to be conditioned space. Using 2x10's, add another roof over the present roof. Apply plastic vapor barrier. Use pink foam for insulation, so we'd have about R40, leaving 1 1/2" available for airflow over the insulation. Perhaps airflow is not needed over pink stuff?

#3. Paint interior of ceiling with vapor barrier paint. Pull off bottom 4 feet of existing roof to stuff pink insulation over the walls and to increase RV where there is not enough room for blown insulation to give sufficient RV to prevent ice problems and heat loss. Remember that sheathing is stapled with at least 5 times normal staples.

#4. Increase homeowners insurance and hope for a tornado.

What do you think?

I appreciate your kind help.


lgerold is offline  
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:33 PM  
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Welcome Lucy:
With your new overhang you could open the truss spaces from the top of the wall outside and upgrade the fiberglass insulation. While you are under the overhang ventilators could be installed along the length to go along with the ridge vent.

I would use pink building paper on the shingles and apply the metal roof directly over that. Tar and roofing products are prone to cause any metal to rust; hence the reason for the pink building paper rather than the normal black 'tar paper'. I would leave the 2 X's off to keep the weight down.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:00 PM  
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I would check on the mold to if it covers the entire underside of the roof, or where, Go from there, the mold would be my deciding factor, as to plan of attack.
Be safe, G
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