Aluminum siding lifting away at bottom corner.

[MidwestMindHome]

My house was built between 1975-1980, and I am not sure how old this siding is. The previous owner was unable to give any information when I purchased nearly 8 years ago.

The siding used to pop up from time to time, and I could just pop it back on and it would stay for months at a time. Last year it would do it a handful of times, and now it pops back off soon after every time.

Since we've been getting some heavy rain the last week or so, I've done a very temporary "fix" of using some waterproof tape, but it's not keeping it down and some bugs got caught in the tape, so I know they're trying to get under the panel.



This tape is a pain to get off and requires a lot of cleanup after. I've called about a dozen local places, including siding companies, general contractors, some misc handymen, and a place that makes and installs specialty aluminum fascia and panels. Most of them have been super nice but also unable to assist, as they either only do vinyl or can't make the time for such a small project.

Still going through some contacts and am holding out hope, but I think it's time to consider tackling it myself.

Youtube videos I've watched are almost all for vinyl siding, but they suggest trying:

• to determine if the nail in the lifting panel's top track is loose.
• to put metal caulk horizontally inside the top track of the below panel that the bottom of the lifting panel clicks into.
• some also recommend aluminum finishing nails where it lifts off long enough to go into the wood, usually with the implication that siding caulk under the nail heads and maybe along the seem will be needed.

Ultimate goal is to get a few more years before I have to reside the whole house while also not making things worse. The panel obviously wants to pop out, so I don't want to just force it down permanently and cause a domino effect.

Thanks!

 

[Snoonyb]

Welcome.
Were it I, I would place a bead of POLYSEAMSEAL in the joint and set a pop-rivet on the underside.

 

[MidwestMindHome]

Welcome.
Were it I, I would place a bead of POLYSEAMSEAL in the joint and set a pop-rivet on the underside.

Thanks. The top part seems to be on very firm, so lifting the panel above to check doesn't feel possible without possible messing up the channel/groove, which some of those aforementioned YT video said will often permanently bend and never clip together again. Securing the bottom corner may be my only option. I know my fair share of people with rivet guns, I'd just need some aluminum rivets to be compatible.

For the caulk, I already have some on-hand that are for exterior window/door/trim use, but they're all silicone or blends, which I'm seeing the Polyseamseal is a latex. Any special considerations there?

 

[Snoonyb]

There folks in here who swear by silicone, however to me, silicone is best used 20' deep in a landfill, unopened.

I began using POLYSEAMSEAL before GE marked silicone, because we need a caulk that we could blend for the variety of fixtures mfg'd. You see, it's paintable, works with your dampened finger, remains pliable, in some cases up to 20yrs, and once it skims over is easily washable.

 

[MidwestMindHome]

Looking back at the caulk I have, it's not 100% silicone. How do you feel about this:



Was also up at the store getting other stuff, and they didn't have the Polyseamseal. Guy there recommended these 2:

 

[Snoonyb]

I'm not opposed to your use of whatever caulk you are comfortable with, and while some of my preferences can be slightly more labor demanding, I'm comfortable with their serviceability.

I look for things that remain flexible, instead of those that become fixed/hardened and unworkable over time.

I haven't used either of those products, I generally use VULCASEAL for doors and windows.

This is a sample; https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1515861-Polyseamseal-Adhesive-5-5-Ounce/dp/B0051BFYPO, which I have found at "ACE IS THE PLACE".

Since I'm in minn., and these folks are on the silicone bandwagon, I have a friend in CA that will mail me POLYSEAMSEAL in caulk tubes.

As a point of history, before POLYSEAMSEAL was purchased by LOCTITE, they were included with KOHLER fixtures, and color matched.

 

[bud16415]

I doubt you will need any caulk at all if you hold the gap shut while drilling the hole for the rivet from below. None of the other lap joints are caulked.

 

[MidwestMindHome]

I doubt you will need any caulk at all if you hold the gap shut while drilling the hole for the rivet from below. None of the other lap joints are caulked.

Would you recommend caulking any that have formed small gaps but otherwise have no detachment?

 

[bud16415]

Would you recommend caulking any that have formed small gaps but otherwise have no detachment?

IMO the modern sidings are mainly about looks and low maintenance. They expand and contract a lot with temperatures and need to be free to float. I don’t think connecting two together with a pop rivet will cause a problem as the other ends can move. If you just want to get a few more years out of it I wouldn’t worry about any small gaps.



I have three layers of siding on my house the original wood clapboard 1890s, asbestos 1940s, then .5” foam insulation and vinyl late 90s. The vinyl when pressure washed looks brand new still and will in another 100 years likely. It isn’t great looking with the overlapping steps but it looks good enough I’m not planning on replacing it. It is what it is. The previous owner left a stack of leftovers and a couple times I had to replace a piece here or there where the mower threw a stone and made a hole.



Worry more about any gaps around windows and the foundation and places where you might get some airflow. The siding isn’t going to work better with or without caulking is my thoughts.

 

[MidwestMindHome]

If you just want to get a few more years out of it I wouldn’t worry about any small gaps.

Thanks. If it makes any difference, I was thinking of the vertical gaps on the side overlaps, not along the bottom. Was just worried about how much water might go in there when we get the kind of crazy 'horizontal' blowing rain we're unfortunately enough to get during storm season.

 

[bud16415]

Thanks. If it makes any difference, I was thinking of the vertical gaps on the side overlaps, not along the bottom. Was just worried about how much water might go in there when we get the kind of crazy 'horizontal' blowing rain we're unfortunately enough to get during storm season.

I think you would be surprised how much weather gets behind these sidings.



The house wrap behind the siding. In the old days it was tarpaper today whole house wraps. Should take care of whatever gets past the siding.

 

[MidwestMindHome]

I think you would be surprised how much weather gets behind these sidings.



The house wrap behind the siding. In the old days it was tarpaper today whole house wraps. Should take care of whatever gets past the siding.

Given the age of the house/siding, I doubt the WRB here is anything fancy. The siding wasn't hanging off enough to clearly see what it was, but it wasn't something that stood out, like some of the Tyvek stuff with logos and colors. The more I think about it, I half wonder if some of it came out when the siding was hanging open before I bought the place. I'll find out later down the road when I get it resided. If I need wood replaced, I need wood replaced.

Got the panel secured down as recommended, though, and the seam is super snug.