Breaking out power receptacles into own circuit breaker

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I see a 100amp panel with 9 breakers, 4 turned off and 1 not wired to anything.
All other breakers go somewhere.
This might be a replacement panel for the old 4 hole glass fuss panels, that would explain alot.
 
It's the reason I've asked for a panoramic view.

I recognize the panel as if I were standing in his yard, instead of south OC. It's been so long since I've done this style of change over, I've forgotten the panel name.

Time flies, when you're having fun.
 
Snoonyb: I have attached a photo of the whole panel. When I took this photo I forgot you requested it with it open exposing the wires. I will take the photo again tomorrow during the daytime.

NealTW: I think that is a great idea. Unfortunately, my base board is too small to run a chase through it and I don't have crown molding. Thanks for the suggestion though.

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Thanks;
That's actually a relief. I had built a mental picture of something far more complicated.

Could you include the weather-head, where the overhead connection from the pole and a close-up of the service with the dead front panel removed, like before.

Thanks again.
 
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Here is the picture with the picture with the cover open. I will take a picture of the weather head tomorrow in the daytime. I'm not sure how I am going to be able to get it into one picture. Basically, the pole goes up through the roof and the weather head is on the top.

As far as making the baseboard into a chase, I really want to do it but it is not an option right now for several personal reasons.

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As you already have conduit on the outside I would go ahead and do the same, I would run 12 wire for 20 amps and for one more wire you can run one to the kitchen too. I would leave all the old outlets alone and just run new.
In the kitchen I would enter in the back of a cupboard to a junction box so you could run a couple outlets from there starting with a gfci.
Just put some of those child proof caps in the outlets you don't want to use any more.
 
Snoonyb: I have attached the pictures you asked for.

Nealtw: Is there a reason why you suggest leaving the old outlets alone and running new? In regards to the conduit you are referencing, it is an MC cable. I have attached a picture of it. I am thinking of ripping it out and just run an extra wire for the one I am already running as it is going to a similar location in the house.

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Cover_Open_Off.jpg

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I will leave suggestions on products to those with more knowledge than me.
The old boxes in the house will likely be small and and you will have to cap the old wires and then add another set. If you go with 12 g, they are pretty stiff.
Depending on what exactly you want to do it might be better to break into a system but if you find 14 g wire there you would have to go back to 15 amps.
 
Thanks again.

Where does the liquidtite that comes out of the bottom of the service go, and is the armored cable to it's left clamped to a driven ground bonded to cold water?
 
Merry Christmas everybody.

Snoonyb: The liquidtite one goes to a underground conduit that leads to my laundry room. The other (smaller one) is tied to the grounding rod.

Newltw: I can go either 12 gauge or 14 gauge as I will run two sets to replace the single 12 gauge.
 
Thanks again.

Liquidtite has a trace copper grnd. strap that can be tied under the connector nuts to the EMT and service can and is considered bonded.

I'm assuming that the MC you have referred to is that from the single gang exterior box to the left of the service mast just under the eaves.

The side knockout should accommodate a larger EMT, or PVC, affording you the ability to, with a larger box, several circuits.

By the way, because you have several 15A breakers "OFF", which were probably light circuits, are you intending to identify them?
 
Snoonyb: Yes, the MC I was referring to is the one in the picture above just under the eaves.

I do plan on running additional circuits through the existing knockout. If it's not enough, I will run a bigger PVC to it. My original question was if the original work with the MC cable is considered as "legal." If it is considered legal, I can just run another one right next to it because it is flexible and follows the contours of the roof eaves. On a related note, I noticed that the ground / neutral bar is pretty full. Is there a possbility I can add another one on the other side?

Thanks in advance.
 
Have you thought about building a box around the meter extended up to the soffet area and putting in vinyl soffet. Wiring would be a lot easier.
 
Snoonyb: Yes, the MC I was referring to is the one in the picture above just under the eaves.

Thanks. I asked for the photos because I wanted to see if the MC was exposed or disappeared into a soffit, and because it is exposed it needs to be replaced, for the reasons already stated.

I do plan on running additional circuits through the existing knockout. If it's not enough, I will run a bigger PVC to it.

Because you can replace the pull elbow at the service with and "L" or "T" to facilitate running both light and plug circuits under the eaves and/or around the base of the wall.

On a related note, I noticed that the ground / neutral bar is pretty full. Is there a possbility I can add another one on the other side?

You do not need to individualize the conductors in your existing buss bar, which should afford you sufficient space.

Are you going to take the opportunity, in this venture, to update or at least "J" box sufficient circuits for an eventual kitchen remodel.
 
Snoonyb: Yes, I do plan on updating the "J" box for future expansion. The kitchen / bathroom really does need additional circuits but I may wait until I remodel the bathroom as the kitchen was remodeled 4 years ago by the old owner.

Thanks very much for taking the time to answer all my questions.
 
Any time.

That may be where some of the unidentified circuits are terminated.
 
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